Question about the Rise

[Barb T]

Also, it really helps to put pins in the pleat before you stitch (more than just at the waist). Do you do that? I know that TAoK says not to, but that particular instruction was non-negotiable with my co-author because that is the way she learned. Me? I use more pins. I find it doesn't take more than a few seconds, and I rarely have to take out a pleat. It also helps keep pleats from expanding toward the waist. If you want to read a post a did awhile back on why I pin, see http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...not-pin-72250/

[Arnot]

Also, it really helps to put pins in the pleat before you stitch (more than just at the waist). Do you do that? I know that TAoK says not to, but that particular instruction was non-negotiable with my co-author because that is the way she learned. Me? I use more pins. I find it doesn't take more than a few seconds, and I rarely have to take out a pleat. It also helps keep pleats from expanding toward the waist. If you want to read a post a did awhile back on why I pin, see http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...not-pin-72250/

Thanks for the additional information. I actually do put pins in the pleat. I haven't had this problem until recently when I began making the kilts with the 3 inch rise.

[Barb T]

I would put one pin in at the waist, plus two in the rise (one at the top and one in the middle of the rise). It really shouldn't matter how high the rise is if the waist itself is firmly pinned.

[Barb T]

The other thing I commonly do is stitch one stitch past a pin before I take out the pin. In other words, stitch as far as the pin, and put the needle in right next to the pin and bring it up just past the pin. Pull the thread tight and then take out the pin. This keeps the pleat firmly pinned at the right size until you've actually stitched past the pin. Helps keep pleat from expanding with respect to the size you pinned it at.

[Arnot]

The other thing I commonly do is stitch one stitch past a pin before I take out the pin. In other words, stitch as far as the pin, and put the needle in right next to the pin and bring it up just past the pin. Pull the thread tight and then take out the pin. This keeps the pleat firmly pinned at the right size until you've actually stitched past the pin. Helps keep pleat from expanding with respect to the size you pinned it at.

Thanks for all your help and advice. I am about to start another one and I'll definitely use this information.

[Barb T]

Coolo! Any time. There are lots of little things that kiltmakers have evolved to make their own work go better, and everyone has different little tricks. I'm more than happy to share mine!

[Barb T]

Coolo! Any time. There are lots of little things that kiltmakers have evolved to make their own work go better, and everyone has different little tricks. I'm more than happy to share mine!

[The Wizard of BC]

As am I if you would want a different approach.

Regardless if I am going to make a machine sewn or a hand sewn kilt I do my lay-out on a large table. I mark my facings aprons and all my pleats using a paper jig from my calculations.
All the pleats are marked for width below the Fell and the taper in the Fell.



I then press all my pleat edges. This gives me a firm, sharp pleat edge that is easy to work with and very accurate.



When I hand stitch (and remember, I am left handed) I use about 6 or 7 pins per pleat. Below the bottom of the Fell I baste, or pin with safety pins, my pleats before I sew the Fell Tapers.





Please notice that I use the Old School English Ring style thimble on the ring finger of my left hand.

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Off topic, @The Wizard of BC but this leftie really needs to attend kilt kamp one year!

[The Wizard of BC]

Kiltedcodewarrior,

I just found out. They have this new invention. It's called an airplane. You get inside this big metal tube and a few hours later you get out of the tube and you are in a total different place. You can be almost anywhere in the world almost anytime you want. It's amazing. I hope not too many people hear about this new thing because everyone will want to come see me.