Quote Originally Posted by Freelander
Thank you very much for your very imformative answers.I just wish I could read German
Hi David,

This is a machine translation of the page and I am sure not 100% accurate by any stretch but perhaps it will suffice for what you want. If you want other pages translated let me know- send the link it only takes a few seconds..

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How can one hold apart the materials?
Difficult matter! If 100 percent in the store such and such draufsteht, a low addition of something else can nevertheless be included, she/it doesn't need to be declared. In nicht-EU-Ländern and on the flea market, one can forget the award. Then, one turns the Brennprobe, sees farther below, at.

In order to really certainly be in the election of the materials, it is the best to even almost turn into an expert. That is so unduly heavy not at all once: Rove one little through material businesses, where certainly however the price papers mostly, the sales associates, the material and sometimes also the weave betrays, and tries, through looks at, feels and smells the typical characteristics to learn from silk, linen and wool. Smells? O yes! Silk for example has a relatively strong, typical smell - the coarser qualities, Bouretteseide and silk linen, exude him/it the most strongly but also Dupion, with what Dupion often is overlaid by a soapy component. Not each silk smells so, but if a material smells so, it is silk. Also linen has a typical smell that is much weaker, however, and easily from the smell of the size, the detergent, that is overlaid surroundings. Attempts also, the three basic weaves of the linens, atlas, and, to meet Twillbindung, sees farther below.



Brennprobe
If the surroundings chooses for your Brennprobe with prudence: It should be nothing combustible in the proximity, for it however after possibility water to the erasure and a vessel, that can hold the burning scrap, without to immediately burst through the heat, therefore ceramics or metal. At home, I always do it in the wash-basin, otherwise outside, provided it is not as drily as in the summer 2003. after the test makes the Stoffetzen well wet, before you discard him/it, maybe the trash can burns afterward otherwise.

Plant fibers burn broadly quite well with light, fast flame. If the flame went out, they glow further until one deletes her/it/them. It smells of burnt paper. The remaining behind ash immediately is very fine, light-gray, and zerbröselt to fine dust if one touches her/it/them.

The behavior is very similarly with all plant fibers unfortunately, i.e. one can hold apart her/it/them heavily. This is applicable to also viscose and acetate, the admittedly vegetable origin, from cellulose namely, but just no nature fibers are. Smooth, chills and perhaps shiny materials, therefore such that one holds for silk easily once v.a. taffeta and satin, that burns so certainly belongs to the synthetic fibers. Cotton and linen are blunt in the surface; only mercerisierte cotton, since in 1850, can shine like the artificial plant fibers approximately so, but just only approximately. Cotton is rather soft, a little woolly, fluently and warmly, linen rather stiffly-watery and cool and often has a quite easy shine - him/it lacking cotton can mercerisierte or also has, however. Since flax fibers are longer than cotton fibers, linen of some reißfester is. Both endure big heat, with the cleans and irons,; cotton enters more strongly. Both crinkle easily, linen even easy and lasting. Above all modern linen often has a quite individual type of crinkling, "linen crinkles nobly", a slogan was once, that I cannot describe. There, only experience helps. According to weave and material weight, linen can also crinkle almost exactly like cotton, however. And then, there is still Ramie, a natural plant fiber, that just in the Orient, but only there, a long tradition has and big similarity with modern linen shows in the wrinkle behavior. One can grasp, different than high-quality linen, relatively roughly at.

Animal fibers burn unwillingly; the flame gives knatternde sounds of itself and goes out fast. It smells of burnt hair. Wool first wrinkles up and becomes she/it brown, then verkokelt to black, shiny lumps, that shatter easily under pressure. Silk verkokelt to silvery shiny lumps, that also shatter easily.

Synthetiks are, this often is confused, a subgroup of the synthetic fibers, but not the same in green, even if the concept "synthetically" only means strictly speaking, that the fiber was generated artificially, which also on viscose u.ä. applies. Synthetiks quite simply are in general usage out of plastic, however, and so the Brennprobe also is: You/they may burn not at all but may only melt and may pull, as long as they are hot, threads. The smell of burning plastics spreads on that occasion. The lumps, that refine, are roughly in the cooled down condition and shatter, different than silk, not. To the Synthetiks is fitting nylon (= Polyamid, and polyester. Rayon admittedly sounds like like nylon, however, viscose, therefore a vegetable synthetic fiber, is.

Rayon is a collective concept for synthetic fiber materials, that are suitable through her/its/their shine, to imitate silk. Viscose, acetate and other, in the meantime extinct fibers belong to it on Zellulosebasis, that was produced since 1885. But also the above named plastic fibers belong to it. Rayon of plant fibers therefore is 19 for the late one. and early 20. Jh. not at all once unauthentisch!

The weaves
The pictures in the following one were scanned all with the same dissolution, about the same factor reduces and doesn't turn in order to make a comparability possible. Since one as still as possible should see the structure, the pictures are relatively big. Please forgive, if explodes the Deinern display.

Rope relationship is the simplest and definitely also eldest weave: One brawls, one down, in one brawls, one down etc the result is an even fence, that looks from the right and left same. The name already says that particularly rope materials were woven so, with what the concept necessarily doesn't mark the fiber but stands broadly for laundry how it is the case of the English still today, bed linens: Bed-linen, whether out of linen or cotton. into this group belongs almost all modern linens, shirt and blouse materials cambric Organza chiffon, Dupion and Bouretteseide, taffeta, gauze, Kettgarn.