Hi Andrew, Jimmy has answered the question about pleats, and he should know!

I have three USA Kilts and another on the way, I love them, the pleats sit well with the "traditionals", I have a casual made of lighter material that is not so good, but it's lovely to wear about the house and workshop.

I have a philabeg on the way and will will offers my opinions on that when it comes.

I also have a Bear 4 yard poly/vis and I've been amazed how well the pleats sit with that kilt.
My other is a Southerncelt kilt, it's also very good fitting.

As I've said many times before, I love the poly vis material, but as Jimmy said, whatever you want - ask, rocky is very keen to please, as are most of the kiltmakers I know.!