Roll pleat (‘military box pleat’)

[Nemuragh]

If it were sewn down, it would have little motion and might even rip if you moved too fast. The pleats are mechanically functional and serve a purpose while you're walking.

I was just referring to the roll - not the larger fold of the pleats. (There’s small chance that I would ever do this, anyway)

[jthk]

Are these kilts comfortable? Are they comfortable to sit in?

I've a Royal Regiment of Scotland kilt that is just as comfy as any other kilt. The other major difference is the rise (from the middle of the top buckles to the top of the kilt) is about 3 inches in total, compared to 1.5 to 2 inches for my other kilts. Consequently, it sits noticeably higher up on my body that a traditional kilt. The tartan is Black Watch and I suspect the wool is 16 oz weight.

[Tobus]

I am currently having a MBP made in 16oz tartan, and I'm curious to see how it will compare to my military kilt. Honestly, I wouldn't even consider any lighter cloth than that.

I do agree that stitching the rolled pleats would be a detriment to the movement of the cloth. The rolled portion of the pleat doesn't necessarily open up, but it does need a little movement. Some kiltmakers do stitch the pleat creases on lighter material (USA Kilts does it on their PV casual kilts, or at least used to when I bought one from them over 10 years ago). In my opinion, while it may have helped keep the pleats creased, this hampered the swish.

One way to help keep military box pleats somewhat in order is the military tried-and-true method of an elastic pleat-keeper stitched inside the kilt, about 3/4 of the way down. See pics below of my QOH #2 kilt. This won't keep the rolled pleats from starting to open up over time, but it does keep the overall pleat arrangement from getting too far out of hand.