Full specification of boys 1912 Highland dress

[OC Richard]

From the photos, the “shoulder plaid” looks very like a “fly plaid”…

There's a problem with plaid nomenclature, because especially nowadays people use a number terms more or less randomly when discussing several distinct plaid designs.

Every plaid is a "shoulder plaid" due to all plaids being on the shoulder in some manner.

The term "fly plaid" is little better, often used to refer to any of three distinct styles of plaid.

Starting around 1800 with the philamore or great kilt going out of style two utterly different sorts of plaids emerged in civilian and military Highland Dress

1) Belted plaid. This complex garment was fringed all around and was had a cloth belt that went round the waist, hence the name. A fringed tab passed through the epaulette where it was fixed with a brooch.

Its purpose was to, when worn with the little kilt or philabeg, simulate the appearance of the old great kilt or philamore.

2) Long plaid. This was around 3 to 4 yards of tartan fringed on both ends which was wrapped round the body. It could be worn with the kilt, trews, or riding breeches.

In the military #1 has been worn by officers in full dress (kilted) for over 200 years.

In the military #2 was worn by officers when mounted (riding breeches and riding boots) and also by pipers and certain senior sergeants (with kilts).

Both #1 and #2 were worn in civilian Highland Dress throughout the Victorian period. In the 20th century #1 won out in civilian Evening Dress with #2 becoming more and more outdated.

There was also, in the military, a third style:

3) Other Ranks plaid. This was a simplified belted plaid lacking fringe and tied to the epaulette with a ribbon. No brooch was worn. AFAIK this style never was adopted in civilian Highland Dress.

Belted plaid worn by officer with kilt



Belted plaid in civilian dress



Long plaid with riding attire, and with kilt



Long plaid in civilian dress