New Business Advice

[figheadair]

Have you found a mill willing to weave bespoke tartan 30 cm wide with suitable gaps in the fabric to form the fringes, which would need to be twisted by hand, at a price you could afford?

I am concerned that you want unicorns from places where ponies roam.

Anne the Pleater

Jumping in here. Lochcarron certain produce scarves like this in both lambswool and cashmere.

[Pleater]

We do, actually have a weaver on the forum - our very own 'Spider', he goes by figheadair here - which does mean weaver but is a common name for the long legged spiders also called daddy long legs.

Someone far more skilled than myself in the craft,

Anne the Pleater

[figheadair]

Whichout wishing to pour water onto this idea, there are a number of considerations to factor in.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]
Initial Run - to prove the concept I'd start with commissioning scarves. Can anyone suggest how many will both pique interest from a mill and take me from plucky amateur status and the general thresholds where the price per item drops?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

If you are thinking only about scarves at this stage, then probably 100 as a minimum. Yes, there are economies of scale but the figure will be in the 100s, possibly 1000s. What one needs t bear in mind is that it is not the number of scarves, that's a function of the weaving and finishing process, but the length of the warp which would in turn determine the number of scarves.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]
Production - How are scarves made, is e.g. 30m of fabric produced and then cut and turned into them or do/can they come off the loom good to go? I appreciate to a professional weaver this may come across as the dumbest question ever.[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

Commercially, they are woven with number across the width of the loom, separated by an unwoven section of the warp on each side. They then have to be cut and finished.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Pricing - If anyone is willing to share that sort of information on the forum or in DM I'd appreciate it. Even just ballpark figures.[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

That is wholly dependent on the material, quantity. I have had some cashmere scarves woven in the past but only as part of a larger order for some bespoke material and so cannot give a price.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Materials - How does the cost of cashmere vs lambswool for a trade customer differ? Are there any additional considerations?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

In the same way it does for a retail customer, cashmere is more expensive.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Mills - In addition to the three mentioned above would anyone else recommend any others or throw their own hat in the ring?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

Johnstons of Elgin.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Lead Times - I've been told a month to set everything up and three months later the finished items. Is that about right? Some people I have spoken to have said there are setup fees that are waived with a certain length of fabric is ordered.[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

Three months is the absolute minimum. Four+ months is more realistic.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Relationships - What is the best way to establish a trade relationship, what do commercial weavers look for in trade customers? ..... other than paying on time and in full.[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

That you are a business of some sort and often they require some sort of business reference(s).

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]White Label - Will any of the mills produce packaging with my company logo and brand identity?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

Most will but it would generally be in addition to their own label as the weaver. Any label also needs to state the material and country of origin.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Labels - A big part of it is having something that conveys exclusivity, I notice Harris Tweed have labels with sequential numbers, can anyone suggest companies who can produce these please? Are these domestically produced or unique to Harris Tweed?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

Harris tweed labelling is unique as far as I know and in part is a result of the restrictions set but the Act of Parliament that controls production.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Additional Products - There may very well be scope for kilts and other goods. Harris Tweed have expanded into leather goods (wallets, purses, handbags) which incorporate their fabrics. With things like this are the components sourced abroad and assembled here, assembled abroad, is the manufacturer a third party who can produce for any customer?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

These are produced by a third party, of which there are any number both at home and abroad. You would probably need to spend some time searching online for supplies.

[QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]Widening the fabric range/designs - Initially it will be bespoke tartans, but in time I think there could be a market for tweed and houndstooth and printed silks. For the weaving aspect can most mills accomplish the first three? And do any have the capacity for silks (probably printed patterns) or is that another thing entirely?[/QUOTE=àluinn;1411755]

Yes to tweed and houndstooth, although there are also bespoke tweed manufacturers, but silk printing is something entirely different. Silk is also very expensive to work with by comparison.

[Jock Scot]

Errrr ummmm, I am not wanting to get into "pouring cold water" on your ideas, but are you thinking along the lines of the "Ministry Of Tartan" operation? As I understand your post, these people may have stolen a march on you.

Just saying.

[àluinn]

Errrr ummmm, I am not wanting to get into "pouring cold water" on your ideas, but are you thinking along the lines of the "Ministry Of Tartan" operation? As I understand your post, these people may have stolen a march on you.

Just saying.

Not aware of them but thanks for the heads up, they've done well to get the endorsement of the various regiments and corps. Not my target market, but really useful to see what they've done. Cheers.

[àluinn]

Errrr ummmm, I am not wanting to get into "pouring cold water" on your ideas, but are you thinking along the lines of the "Ministry Of Tartan" operation? As I understand your post, these people may have stolen a march on you.

Just saying.

Further research today suggests their tartan's are registered with the MOD and not the Tartan Registry, I wonder if that avoids £70 per registration.

Does anyone know what mill is producing their items, they offer a number no doubt on a CMT (cut/make/trim). Trews, Ties, Bowties, Scarves, Stoles, Waistcoats and Kilts are offered for each tartan.

Looking at it would guess ten days into this process it's one of Elliot's, MacNaughton Group, Lochcarron or Johnstone's.

[figheadair]

Further research today suggests their tartan's are registered with the MOD and not the Tartan Registry, I wonder if that avoids £70 per registration.

I think you have the wrong end of the stick. The MOD do not register tartans. And the SRT only registers new designs that are post their establishment in 2009.

[àluinn]

I think you have the wrong end of the stick. The MOD do not register tartans. And the SRT only registers new designs that are post their establishment in 2009.

I was only going with what i read after a search. On their homepage, The Ministry of Tartan states that each of their tartans is “Officially Registered as an Authentic Tartan for all eternity,” with “official permission granted” by each respective corps or regiment under an MOD license.

Google suggested these tartans are likely registered in the MOD’s military tartan registry, not necessarily the Scottish Register of Tartans (SRT)

[àluinn]

Whichout wishing to pour water onto this idea, there are a number of considerations to factor in.

All useful stuff Figheadair, thanks for taking the time to answer each in turn. Given me a few more questions to ask.