Advice Needed-Brogues for Formal Wear

[Nanook]

I'm assembling a formal kilt outfit. I've ordered the Argyll jacket, dress sporran, white hose and flashes. I know that brogues/wing tips are the recommended footwear. Since I went with an Argyll, I've decided against the Ghillies. In looking around eBay I've found brogues from the UK and wing-tips from the US, both in leather. I have also found patent leather tuxedo wing-tips for formal wear.

Patent leather is leather. Plastic is plastic. They are not the same. Real patent leather follows the Boyden process which is to coat the leather with an oil based lacquer. Many current patent leather shoes don't follow the patent (which has long expired) but used polymers.

Traditional dress shoes are NOT patent leather but smooth leathers polished to a high gloss, a shine that rivals patent leather but with a much more elegant patina. Formal shoes for the evening are court shoes (as worn by the judges of Old Bailey). Their form is similar to woman's pumps with a bow. They are black and typically made of box calf leather. Court shoes are a bit much for an Argyll and I think look a bit off with kilts (given perhaps their association with woman's pumps).

I'd go, instead, with a black Blucher or plain Derby (like an Oxford but without the front cap). The plain Derby is THE formal day shoe but I think quite fitting to formal occasions with a kilt.

My inclination is for the genuine leather, but would the patent leather be acceptable or preferred for formal wear?

Patent leather is for the lazy. It takes a bit of effort but I can polish a pair of shoes to a higher gloss. The main problem is that proper shoe waxes have become very difficult to find. Up to around 30 years ago Kiwi in the U.S. made reasonable waxes but.. that's not yesterday. Most polishes sold are fitting to the cheap Asian imported shoes on people's feet . Junk. Easy to use but hardly worth using.

Since you are located in Oregon USA I'd have a look at something like this
http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline...89&imageType=1

(a nice black Blucher)
The one shown is shell Cordovan. I'd go with calf. Cordovan is hardwearing and glossy but less formal. A few years ago they were quite a European fetish--- mostly Aldens.

With the Argyll (which is less formal), especially non-black or with non-silver buttons, another option would be something like

Again highly polished it could look nice.

(and with both you would have shoes that can be worn with suits or sports jackets for less formal occasions)

[Colin]

http://www.zappos.com/n/p/dp/141642/c/1650.html here's some Doc ones that I know some guys here will like.

Here some cheaper ones I had been looking at http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B000K...odeid=16337891

Penny's of Thunder bay has some really affordable ghillies on, but given the mess and lack of action when I tried to order some stuff from them in the summer I can't say they are an option for me right now. Here's a link anyway http://www.pennys.ca/accessories.php

[RCallan]

For my wedding I had myself and all the groomsmen just get a pair of black wing-tips...and then I replaced all the laces with longer ones, and added a tassel to each end. Cheap easy way of mixing the traditional look with a dressy style.

[billmcc]

Glad to hear you bought the wingtips. Patent leather shoes are very uncomfortable.

For those who don't like wingtips because of the fancy edging, take a look at this plainer cap-toe shoe:
http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B0007VM3PM
I bought a pair at Target, but I have also seen this style of shoe at Payless and Wal-mart.

[Nanook]

I bought a pair at Target, but I have also seen this style of shoe at Payless and Wal-mart.

Something odd about the call to spend 300-400 Quid on bespoke kit to then have want of a 5 Bob jobber for the feet.

Such cheap "shoes" don't fit right and won't offer good support and ergonomics demanded by foot and vertebrae. They look like what they are and not what they are trying to be. More appropriate--- and less inconsistent (in the tradition of tongue-in-cheek Sanculottism)--- would be a pair of sabots (wooden shoes).

I suggest, at the very least, some reasonable Goodyear welted footwear. Good shoes are not toss away items.

[Tartan Texan Trenton]

As for me, I don't have an option - I'll be wearing the kilt with my mess dress uniform for Burns' night - and that means shiny shoes. But, I figure in a (somewhat) darkened Officer's club, unless someone goes to the effort of shining a flashlight down on my shoes to illuminate me under my tatran - I should be alright. Cheers!

[Rampant Lion]

I would suggest the regular brogue shoes. I have a pair myself that I wear with my kilt when ghillies would be too much. Also, you can wear them with a lot of different outfits. One thing I've always believed in is that one shouldn't try to go too cheap when buying shoes. My regular brogue shoes I bought 7 years ago and were comfortable right from the get-go; no need to work them in. They're Hush Puppies and have a rubberized sole, which made it possible to run through an airport in the things.

[bunchdescendant]

I agree with Rampant Lion-

Good Brouges go with kilts and suits. A good pair shouldn't hurt from the get-go.

If you try on a pair and they hurt, it may not get any better as they 'break in'. Some only get better because they are falling apart!

Spend an extra few dollars and take pity on your feet-they're the only ones you have! I am diabetic so good shoes are a must for me.

Ray

[majdan]

Thanks Nanook, now I know why it's called "Pattent Leather"

[Kilted Christian]

I have two pairs of Allen Edmonds cap toe oxfords in Cordovan and Black, super high polished, especially the sole edges and heels. They are the same shape as wingtips but no wing tip, a simple capped toe. If you don't like the wingtip/pierced/brogue look, these are a perfect alternative: classic and hold their own but not detract from the kilt. If you like a buckle shoe instead, you can find a similar style. Bostonian is a less expensive alternative and so is Nunn-Bush, but be careful with your shoe size. Mine is 13B and I have to be careful that some brands/styles just look really huge (surprisingly, some of the high end brands do not).