The Holy mantra of 8 yard tank, 8 yard tank

[Jimmy Carbomb]

As one last "aside" to this conversation, the individual kiltmaker will have his/her own preferences for pleat depth. This can ultimately determine whether they pleat the kilt in a certain pattern. I, personally, like pleats to be no less than 3 to 3.5 inches in depth with a "show' of 3/4" to 1" (depending on how the math works out). In essence, that COULD mean that a 30" waist would only have 15 to 20 pleats. Ah... THAT'S how that works!

On the other hand, I made a kilt for a 37" waist that contained just over 9 yards of woolen tartan. Sure it had the weight of a cinder-block... but it was ordered that way.

As long as the pleat depth and numbers are good enough to hold the kilt in a nice, rigid drape and keep the pleats from wandering all over the high-acres... there's just no knowing the "required" amount of material.

Don't forget that the material can make a HUGE difference in how much to use too. Heavier fabrics and weaves don't need as much "weight control", so less material will still drape correctly.

*Weight Control* was a term that I was taught from the retired HoE instructors. It simply means that in order for pleats to maintain their position, they need to have a certain amount of mass for a straight hang. For those who work with 16 ounce wools 9or greater)... it's not really much of a factor.

[Pleater]

I addressed just this topic in an article in The Scottish Banner a year ago last February. Archived here:
http://kilts.albanach.org/yardage.html

And as an aside, that lovely honey-brown Harris tweed kilt and jacket photo from the museum, above, is not really a mid-nineteenth century kilt. It's a modern kilt, but made in the earlier box pleated style. Just so there's no confusion!

We do have a few vintage kilts in the museum from c. 1800 to 1850, though.

M

Matt, does that jacket have an uneven hem or is it just a trick of the camera?

As a persnickerty sewer, I have spent several minutes glaring at the right side of it with an intensity likely to cause spontaneous combustion in the actual article.

The left side seems to be beautifully level, but the line looks to wander downwards on the right.

[Pleater]

Don't forget that the material can make a HUGE difference in how much to use too. Heavier fabrics and weaves don't need as much "weight control", so less material will still drape correctly.

A light appliation of spray on starch to the inside face of lower weight materials when pressing/ironing can add 'gravitas' to rather flimsy stuff, as can sewing in a ribbon or tape at the hem, which also adds to the movement of the pleats.

[Scott Gilmore]

I have an 8 yard kilt in the ancient Macneil of barra tartan on order through Matt at the Tartans museum. With the sett and my size, it's going to be clost to 9 yards of heavyweight wool. While I was there, I showed Matt my casual kilt in the Macneil modern tartan. He was very interested in the fact that my kilt had a Galeic Themes label in it. He explained that when the tartans museum had talked with Galeic Themes about making 4 yard casual kilts, the representative with whom he was talking said, "Sir, we are not interested in making ladies skirts." Here is a pic of one of thew box pleated kilts from the museum. It's not the one mentioned above, but rather one from the mid 19th century.

If you are refering to Gaelic Themes the Web site, it is yet another Web site belonging to the scoundrels at Viking Tecnology.

You'd be wise to steer clear of anything in any way related to Viking Technology. They did Matt a favor by snubbing him.

Thank you,
Scott Gilmore

[CameronTaylor]

I still find Alan's kilt to be a work of art, look at all those pleats (I really am looking at the kilt mind you ... ).
My 3T is one heavy piece of work being built as a traditional "should" be.
I like 'em a little lighter cuz I don't have a lot of hips to carry artillery (tanks) around.


CT - really, look at all those pleats

[Jerry]

Matt, does that jacket have an uneven hem or is it just a trick of the camera?

As a persnickerty sewer, I have spent several minutes glaring at the right side of it with an intensity likely to cause spontaneous combustion in the actual article.

The left side seems to be beautifully level, but the line looks to wander downwards on the right.

Matt, I misunderstood the card under that kilt