X Kilt prototype pictures

[David Dalglish]

While I admire anyone that can make a kilt, these to me are more like a skirt than a kilt. Sorry Alan there are not to my taste

[Alan H]

So here, the thing.... Some folks like Utilikilts and their really narrow aprons, and some folks don't. Some folks like box pleated kilts, some folks don't.

way2fractious has it right. These are NOT supposed to be super-custom fitted traditional kilts. The goal was to design and stitch up some kilts that were A.) really easy to make, and B.) didn't cost much in terms of materials....so that all those guys on X Marks who write "I'd really like to make a kilt but...." will have a guide to making a really basic Contemporary kilt and would go ahead and try it.

I've made a hand-stitched traditional 7-plus yard wool kilt. This is emphatically NOT that article of clothing.

When I started the design process I went to Jason (prototype #1) and said "I'm going to make you a kilt...you want one that looks more like a Utilikilt or one that looks more traditional? You want a narrow apron or a wide apron?"

He chose a narrow apron. OK, so that's what I went with... Narrow apron it is. I opted for the box pleats because A.) no other currently working professional contemporary kiltmaker makes box pleat contemporary kilts, so I wouldn't be stepping on anybody's toes, and B.) It takes less material to make a box pleat kilt than to make a knife pleat kilt. The goal was make it CHEAP and EASY.

OK, so what I'm looking for fro you guys is not so much "I don't like it" or "I think it's great" but rather...."what if you changed the taper this way" or "They look stiff, is that the sewing, or the material?".......those sorts of comments and questions. I can't make "more pleats and bigger" because it's a BOX pleat kilt. If I make the pleats wider, then there will be fewer of them. I could make the parts of the pleats that lie UNDER the box pleat deeper...that's a thought. I wonder....I hadn't thought of that. I might try it on the next ones I'm making.

One really good comment has come up. A couple of folks said that they looked stretched around the hips, and I agree. I'm changing the design to make the inside of the first box pleat and the last box pleat...the parts of those pleats that face forward towards the apron... significantly deeper. In fact, I'll probably make them twice as deep. I'm also going to increase the depth of the fold that lies under the left edge of the under-apron. Both of those changes should help with the "stretched" issue.

Another comment was made about how the narrower-aproned kilt looked better than the one with the wider apron. I agree, and in fact today I trimmed 2 1/2 inches off the wider apron. It's going to work out fine because the kilt was a little bit big to start with, so this will actually make it fit better, AND improve the looks.

OK, keeping in mind what the design constraints are, and that I'm trying to make a NARROW-APRON, CONTEMPORARY, BOX-PLEAT KILT....bring on more comments!

Just for those that are thinking about it...doing a taper in a box pleat kilt that only has ten pleats, is tricky. I mean, if you need to work in an eight inch taper from hips to waist, into ten pleats, that's a LOT of taper in each pleat, eh?

[Alan H]

Oh, someone asked about whether there was any A-shaping, or taper in the apron. The answer is no, there isn't, but I have to admit that I've been seriously tempted to put some in. I wouldn't do a lot, maybe just an inch on each side. I might try that on the next two kilts.

Then again, that's just another complication, you know? It's a trade-off....a bit of A-shaping might look better, but then I have to write it into the instructions, and that makes the instructions harder to follow.

BTW, the instructions are currently about 20 pages long, with five illustrations.

[mkmound]

One of the first things I noticed was that particularly on Dan's kilt, both sides of the apron appear to be rolling in towards the bottom. Will deepening the pleat on the left side will probably take care of that? Is the right side of the apron a matter of pressing it?

[Alan H]

One of the first things I noticed was that particularly on Dan's kilt, both sides of the apron appear to be rolling in towards the bottom. Will deepening the pleat on the left side will probably take care of that? Is the right side of the apron a matter of pressing it?

A couple of things contribute to that. Primarily it's that Dan is wearing the kilt down UNDER his gut, and that distorts the thing. I measured it at his navel and he should wear it at his navel, but he's not used to that, and he pushed it down. Notice that Tim, who is used to wearing kilts, is not having this issue even though that kilt is not made for him and is about two inches too big for him around the waist.

However, I think you're right, deeping the pleat and also deepening the fold that lies under the under-apron will help.

When I had Dans wife measure him, he came out with only a two-inch difference between his waist and his butt measurements. That's kind of odd, usually the hip/butt measurement is 6-9 inches bigger than the waist. I watched them, and she sure seemed to be doing it all right. So anyway, I wonder if we goofed when we measured Dan, because the kilt on Tim looks a LOT better in general, even though it's not made for him..

BTW, these are canvas, and when it's ironed, it's very stiff. I have 4 yards of cotton/poly 8 ounce twill sitting in my study right now, and I'm very much looking forward to making the next two kilts out of this material and seeing how it works out.

[HeathBar]

Alan,

After reading your last posts, I thought of a few things. In writing your instructions, did you consider such questions from the reader as "Can I do all of this on my wife's sewing machine? What kind of thread do I use? What other tools will I need? What shouyld I look for in material?"
I'm sure you have, but since you were looking for comments...
How do you plan on ditributing these instructions? PDF, Website, or through Celtic Dragon Press for $19.95.

Lately the look of UK's has grown on me, but their price has kept me looking eleswhere. Your X-kilts have have that look, and its growing on me everytime I see them.

Great...now I am jonesing for X-Kilt instructions.

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

...Great...now I am jonesing for X-Kilt instructions.

And that's a problem? Let me know as I am also waiting anxiously for the instructions, as I determine how to cut down a jacket for kilt wear, also following Alan's instructions!

[Heath]

i'd love to have these instructions also. if i could make a bunch of these from lighter weight material for everyday use, i'd go kilted much more often!

[Alan H]

I'm about 3/4 of the way through the instructions. I was going to give them away, since Steve from Freedom Kilts is working on a truly complete manual on making a much more sophisticated contemporary kilt. His manual will be heavily illustrated and will guide you through sophisticated shaping, tapering and so on. I bet he includes how he does his "beer gut" adjustments.

My manual doesn't do that. It's comlete in that I tell you exactly all the materials you need... like for example, a home sewing machine that will do straight stitch and zig-zag. I briefly discuss the pro's and cons of making the kilt out of different materials. I'll be beefing that section up after I make these two upcoming kilts out of poly/twill.

I ALSO tell you what the manual is NOT. I tell you who an X-Kilt is likely to not fit, very well.

The manual has blow-by-instructions on how to do EVERYTHING....how to measure yourself, how to calculate how wide your apron should be, and how many box pleats....how to lay it out on the fabric by drawing out the pleats with chalk, and so on. I have an example pleating diagram (modifed from prototype #2), and an addendum on how to make cargo pockets. I'm thinking on creating an addendum on how to make an X-Skirt for your lady.

I'll finish it up after I finish the two poly/cotton X-Kilts so that I incorporate what I learn from working in the lighter material. Then I'll snap some pictures of the process, and make the whole thing available as a free pdf file. Maybe Hank will host the download here on X-Marks.

I think I'll have 20-30 printed copies made up for the Pleasanton games and sell them for what it costs me to print them.

[TimC]

Alan I Loved The Kilts You Made The Boys Which By The Way Comes 2 My Next Question How About Making Me A Mini Kilt?

Take Care
See Ya Next Beer Friday!!!!
"damaris"