'Kingussie' Pleated

**longhuntr74** · 21st August 09, 11:18 AM

I know I really dug this one up from the past...but I've been researching Kingussie vs. box vs. knife for my next kilt. There are some very good thoughts here. I really like the look of the Kingussie pleat...but never considered the wind factor. I can definitely picture the problem as described. Thanks for all who contributed here!!

**Ryan Ross** · 21st August 09, 01:32 PM

For what it's worth, I've only noticed a very small difference in how the wind affects the Kingussie style kilt, as opposed to a standard four yard box pleated affair. I'm quite fond of mine, as it were, and would reccomend them to anyone who likes the look of that style... provided they use 16oz. material or heavier.

**The Guy in the Kilt at UC** · 24th August 09, 10:29 AM

I have a contemporary kilt in that pleating style. I am not fond of because of how it catches the wind.

**ForresterModern** · 25th August 09, 05:39 AM

One might wonder if using more fabric (deeper pleats) and heavier weight fabric (16 or 18 oz might affect the tendency for a standard Kingussie kilt to fly more prevalently in a wind than other styles. I currently have 8 meters of custom woven Allen 1996 16oz Dalgleish tartan (for very special family reasons) which i was considering having made up into a Kingussie but am now rethinking my plans a bit in this regard. Would all the fabric be able to be used in a Kingussie build up, or would a reverse Kingussie or standard 8yd knife pleat make better use of all the fabric available and be more functional to boot.

Lets keep talking a bit more about this as I am on the cusp of a decision and do not wis to make the wrong one with this special fabric. Thanks.

Jeff :ootd:

**The Guy in the Kilt at UC** · 25th August 09, 05:46 AM

It's difficult to say, because my kilt is not wool. It's cotton, so that may be the deal on that guy.

**Pleater** · 25th August 09, 10:12 AM

I have made reverse Kingussie kilts from various lengths of material, up to 8 yards.

It is easy to put extra fabric into the inverted box pleat at the back, which would not be possible with the Kingussie style, where the box pleat can't be overly large or it will obscure pleats on each side of it.

I think that the Kingussie style is quite frugal - on the lines of the box pleated kilt for the amount of fabric it uses.

Depending on the size of the sett of your tartan and your own size you might be able to use a long length of fabric, but I associate the reverse Kingussie with casual kilts - my own are worn as everyday clothing, but your tartan sounds far too special, and unless you have very good reasons for deviating from the standard knife pleating I would advise that you stick to that style so your kilt is regarded as 'proper' in every way.

The only other options I could think of would be rolled pleats, military box pleats, or perhaps double box pleats. I think that the military box pleats use up a lot of fabric, there being up to 7 layers in that style.

I cannot fault the reverse Kingussie style for the uses I make of it, but I do have the uneasy feeling that it is not something that a gentleman would wear in the drawing room.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**ForresterModern** · 25th August 09, 10:55 AM

Thank you Anne for your input. I will search for less fabric of less significance to try out a Kingussie style kilt. Being that I am a 45-46 inch waist and 47-48 inch hip ( 26 in length) would 5 meters of SW 16oz tartan typically be enough for a standard Kingussie for me?

I will save the Allen for now for a special handmade 8yd traditional that can stand the test of time, both physically and in style.

Thanks again, Anne.

jeff :ootd:

**long_hand** · 25th August 09, 11:03 AM

I actually really like that...like...alot.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 25th August 09, 05:04 PM

I usually use either 4 or 5 yards for a Kingussie for an average kilt (made for hips 46" or less). If your hips are over 46" add another yard.

Maybe Ryan can post pics of the kilt I made for him.

**Pleater** · 25th August 09, 06:07 PM

Taking 6 yards as a maximum, that would be almost precisely 5.5 metres.

With a tartan you might need to centre the front and back on a particular part of the set, but the smaller the sett the less fabric is lost to that end - but as you are only just into the larger sizes Mr Newsome's stimates should still hold good.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: