Callling all knitters

[Pleater]

As Double Knitting yarn is usually 6 ply, then it would have to be very light to knit to a 4 ply pattern.

There are a lot of sock yarns around these days though, it seems that sock knitting is making a comeback.

I can quite understand it, though, having bought a couple of pairs of hose recently and found that they are not the right size and not pairs either I am looking for my needle case - I keep the deadly short fine double pointed needles in an antique wooden needle storage tube for safety.

I can knit the tops and legs on my knitting machines, but prefer to have the feet hand knitted and seamless as they are just sooooo comfortable.

Anne the Pleater

[Friday]

As Double Knitting yarn is usually 6 ply, then it would have to be very light to knit to a 4 ply pattern.

I can knit the tops and legs on my knitting machines, but prefer to have the feet hand knitted and seamless as they are just sooooo comfortable.

Anne the Pleater

I am beginning to think that wraps per inch (WPI) is a better measure of yarn size than the named (3 ply, 4 ply, sport, worsted, etc.) How tight you hold the yarn has some impact but I think it gives you a better idea.

When you use your machine for the tops and legs do you seam or knit in the round? My problem is going from a 18 inch calf to a 12 inch ankle the stitch increases are more apparent than when I hand knit.

[idyllicchick]

@Friday Thanks so much for that!

[idyllicchick]

I am beginning to think that wraps per inch (WPI) is a better measure of yarn size than the named (3 ply, 4 ply, sport, worsted, etc.)

I keep trying to click agree (1) to this, but that doesn't work on this forum!

[Knitknut]

I am beginning to think that wraps per inch (WPI) is a better measure of yarn size

Yes! Astronomically better! As a handspinner personally, WPI is really the best way to tell the size of a yarn (granted you do the wrapping for measuring properly-don't stretch the yarn or scrunch up the wraps). For handspun yarns this is the way yarn is categorized, both the singles and the plied yarns. (Hint for non-spinners: don't confuse Wraps Per Inch with Twists Per Inch. They are two different things.)

Also, how many yards per pound is another indicator of the thickness of yarn that you will see listed in charts, but with this comparison you must be careful, since different fibers will have different weights (IE cotton is much heavier than wool), but if you are comparing wool to wool, you can use yards per pound as a guide. Also, how the yarn is spun and plied will change yardage to thickness (worsted vs woolen), so again, this is just a way of estimating.

A few (of many) charts for reference:
http://www.fiber2yarn.com/info/wpigauge.htm
http://www.spinderellas.com/patterns/yarnchart.html
http://www.woolfestival.com/articles/WPI.htm

Again, you'll find differences in charts from different "experts", nothing in fiberarts is written in stone!

Generally, a 4 ply fingering weight yarn would be at least 16-18 WPI.

Dawn
www.dawnadcock.com
www.3gcs.com/adcock/knittingmain.htm
Ravelry: dawnsdreamdesign

[thistlelass]

And don't forget-if you spin, there's wollen, worsted and the multitude of variances thereof which will affect your WPI's!!!

[londonpiper]

Mr. Drewery had a fairly long leg and foot..............................

As far as I'm aware, John Drewrey is still alive and kicking. or should that be dancing?



How near are we to seeing pics of finished hose?


By the way, Friday, many thanks for the kind words of encouragement. I'll be getting started on your recommendations as soon as I've got my van MOT'd

[Friday]

By the way, Friday, many thanks for the kind words of encouragement. I'll be getting started on your recommendations as soon as I've got my van MOT'd

There are a lot of people here to help, also check LYS
(Local Yarn Store) see if they have classes. If not they will probably help to sell you yarn . But most of all there is nothing hard, just new and different.

[Pleater]

When you use your machine for the tops and legs do you seam or knit in the round? My problem is going from a 18 inch calf to a 12 inch ankle the stitch increases are more apparent than when I hand knit.

The knitting machine is limited by the technique of the knitting - stockinet and simple patterns can be done in the round on the Passaps - which are fixed double bed machines, on the Japanese machines with ribbers, but that is stockinet only or very simple patterns done by hand.

The decreasing can be done at one side, fully fashioned using the 3 pronged tool seems to give the best results, though straight off the machine the knitting can look a bit raggedy. It looks better after washing ane wearing a few times.

For ribbing, the machine can only produce flat pieces, but they can be joined up by dropping the edge stitch and latching up the loops, or using mattress stitch.

Another option is to start off with a 2 by 2 ribbing, the industrial one where there is only one needle out of work between the pairs of needles. Have the end pairs on the main bed to seam together.

Gradually change each pair to just 1 st on the ribber, starting with the outside pairs and working inwards so the middle ones are reduced just an inch or so above the top of the foot. You can leave the ribber in half pitch - I always move the st outwards so I can't move to pitch without moving all the stitches on one side of the ribber. It doesn't matter once the knitting is off the machine, as a good pull lengthways evens out the ribs - or if some stitches stick a poke with a single eye tool usually gets them to move.

I have a hand knit pattern which I based this decreasing on - I have typed it into electronic form. Would you like to have a copy? It is out of copyright. At least it is here in the UK.

Anne the Pleater

[Friday]

Thanks Anne - I need to go back and practice on my machine. I've been caught up by what I am hand knitting. You give good advice as always.