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  1. #21
    Join Date
    15th May 08
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    Anyone have pics of the bent safety pin method.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    3rd November 06
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    Anchorage, Alaska, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmac3205 View Post
    It works even better if you put a metal disk between the button and the cotter pin, but the disks are harder to find.
    How about using a washer? I'd guess a large-pattern #2 or #4 washer would do the trick.

    Abax

  3. #23
    Join Date
    22nd November 07
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    Quote Originally Posted by svc40bt View Post
    Anyone have pics of the bent safety pin method.


    No, sorry... I'm not even sure you could take a picture that would make sense.

    * I am finding it hard to explain too, but basically there is a small bend in the middle of the pointed wire of the safetypin. It's like a half circle or a "V" shape, and that is what holds the button on. The other side of the pin has to be bent to make both sides equal.

    You put the pin through the fabric, over the shank, and back in the fabric then push it through until that little bent part is over the shank. Then you close the pin and it's done.

    You can also get quilt basting safetypins that are already bent, but they are a bit bigger than you need, and cost a bit more. Hope that helps. *

    * You know, I'm not satisfied with the safetypin technique anymore. The safetypins leave a dent in the fabric if they aren't shaped right, they can be difficult to put on, and they can show if the buttons are not on the large size. However, I don't want to punch holes in my jackets.

    So, I'm trying to redesign a safetypin of sorts that will do the job without needing the holes. *
    Last edited by Bugbear; 23rd December 08 at 11:33 PM.
    I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
    Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…

  4. #24
    Join Date
    24th April 07
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    Duluth, MN
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    Hi all,

    I cheated.

    When I rebuilt my doublet, I used small circular pieces of Gore-Tex seam tape to reinforce both the lining and wool, then simply punched a 1/8" hole through both layers. My buttons are held on with 3/4" long by 1/8" thick pieces of polyethylene plastic welding rod. I heated them up, and pressed them through the loop in the button shanks, and bent the shanks down slightly to hold the orientation. I can pull them out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

    Cheers,

    Kevin.
    Institutio postulo novus informatio supersto
    Proudly monkeying with tradition since 1967.

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