An eBay Find

**figheadair** · 21st February 15, 10:01 AM

Originally Posted by Orionson

Fascinating. It certainly looked far flimsier than the kilts of the modern day. This one looks more like a Mason's Apprentice Apron than a kilt. The gentleman who commissioned the original kilt and coat was certainly a very slightly built man. I cannot help but wonder if research might reveal who he was and who his Tailor was. Given the prominence of the 1822 Levee, there must be written records of the Edinburgh and London Tailors of the day squirreled deep in some dusty archive somewhere.

This is classic Wilsons' hard tartan. You need to understand that it was essentially for dressing up rather than day wear and very much aimed at the gentry and townies rather than for wearing on the hill. I reckon that the owner was probably a 34" chest, not uncommon at that time. Many of these outfits were produced by George Hunter who had offices in Princes Street and London. That would be my starting point but we know that in the case of the MacGregors that the chief outfitted his clan, at great expense. The current chief may well know more - waiting to hear.

Originally Posted by Orionson

I also wonder if this kilt is pleated to any particular sett or pattern or, if like the 1790 MacDuff, it is pleated completely randomly to "nothing".

Unusually for the time, it's pleated to sett and is the earliest example I know of. It may have been pure coincidence because the sett is so simple it may have been the natural choice rather than to stripe.

**Domehead** · 21st February 15, 11:08 AM

This is the same George Hunter referenced in the William & Andrew Smith work, 1850?

Ryan

**figheadair** · 22nd February 15, 03:55 AM

Originally Posted by Domehead

This is the same George Hunter referenced in the William & Andrew Smith work, 1850?

Ryan

Yes it is. He was the main supplier to the gentry, Royalty etc in the early-mid 1800s.

**figheadair** · 22nd February 15, 04:00 AM

The kilt has been measured - total length of material is 3 yds 1 foot which is very slight but not unknown in these Highland Revival kilts.

**Orionson** · 22nd February 15, 08:11 AM

Slight, indeed. Given the sparsity of cloth, I rather suspect that George IV was not the only one to avail themselves of coloured tights in an effort to preserve their modesty. Are there any other photographs that the new owner may be happy to share?

**figheadair** · 22nd February 15, 10:23 AM

Originally Posted by Orionson

Slight, indeed. Given the sparsity of cloth, I rather suspect that George IV was not the only one to avail themselves of coloured tights in an effort to preserve their modesty. Are there any other photographs that the new owner may be happy to share?

I'm saving them for my paper. Hopefully soon.

**Domehead** · 22nd February 15, 11:47 AM

Mr. MacDonald, thank you very much for your response.

Hunter is usually characterized as a "military clothier". I took this to mean he was collector in the same as Gen. Cockburn: diligent, but less anthropological than James Logan. I didn't know he was a Haberdasher, for lack of a better word. So, his procurement of specimens was for his own edifice, ergo that of his business then?

Ryan.

**figheadair** · 22nd February 15, 03:45 PM

Originally Posted by Domehead

Mr. MacDonald, thank you very much for your response.

Hunter is usually characterized as a "military clothier". I took this to mean he was collector in the same as Gen. Cockburn: diligent, but less anthropological than James Logan. I didn't know he was a Haberdasher, for lack of a better word. So, his procurement of specimens was for his own edifice, ergo that of his business then?

Ryan.

Hunter was supplier to many of the Highland regiments. Perhaps because of that he manage to become supplier to the Royal family and the gentry. He supplied the King's outfit for Levee.

**Domehead** · 22nd February 15, 04:18 PM

Brilliant!
Again, thank you very much. I do appreciate your time and education.
Thanks for your prompt responses.

Ryan M. Liddell

**figheadair** · 23rd February 15, 07:00 AM

We know little about Hunter's early life but he clearly did well enough to found his own business. George Hunter & Co., is recorded as a military supplier and outfitter at 23 Princes Street from 1815 to 1822. He/they also had offices at Tokenhouse Yard, London, presumably to be close to the Horse Guards. Handy for the London social set too.

In July 1822, the King placed an order Hunters for a highland costume in bright red ‘Royal Tartan’ which cost ₤1,354 & 18 shillings (a sum equivalent to more than £100,000 today). The King's Jaunt took place in Aug which is very little time to produce an outfit and associated accoutrements and one suspects that some of it must already have been in hand.