formal jackets and the cookie cutter aversion

**MacLowlife** · 26th October 09, 05:41 PM

Sorry, not Kenmore, which takes a jabot. I meant the SB style that buttons fairly high, but has lapels and takes a black tie and a belt, like Prince Charles wears sometimes. Perhaps it is a Balmoral? Anyway, what do the Smart people think?
Many many thanks

**Phil** · 27th October 09, 05:52 AM

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**Bugbear** · 26th October 09, 10:37 PM

Be careful with that velvet, it can be very difficult to work with. If you haven't already, you might want to read up on working with velvet.

**Bugbear** · 27th October 09, 06:48 AM

Ok, I had to look it up. I knew that Panache has a dark blue doublet in the style having a belt. Turns out it is a Montrose, as far as I can tell.

I don't find anything about any other doublets with belts, so if there is one it would be good to know the name.

**McMurdo** · 27th October 09, 07:16 AM

Originally Posted by Ted Crocker

Ok, I had to look it up. I knew that Panache has a dark blue doublet in the style having a belt. Turns out it is a Montrose, as far as I can tell.

I don't find anything about any other doublets with belts, so if there is one it would be good to know the name.

Ted
Jamie's Doublet is a Sheriffmuir and I believe it is Black, I have a Montrose, it is also Black.

**Bugbear** · 27th October 09, 07:28 AM

Oops! Sorry.

I think I just misread one of his posts about white tie. That's probably why I was having a difficult time looking it up; never mind.
Sheriffmuirs are good, though. I'm still not finding any other doublets mentioned that have belts.

* These are a couple of the posts that confused me about the Panache doublet:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...7&postcount=20
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...6&postcount=10

Just mixed up.

**Phil** · 27th October 09, 09:10 AM

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**Bugbear** · 27th October 09, 09:33 AM

Um, going by all of the pictures, which look like photobucket links to me, those are Montrose doublets. I guess that is what MacLowlife is refering to then. I can't find anything else; it would have been neat if there were though.

Here's a link to my own thread, from way back when, on the non-cookiecutter kilt jackets:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/t...x.html?t=47999

**MacLowlife** · 27th October 09, 03:56 PM

Thanks for the warning about the velvet, Bugbear, I try not to be alone in a room with it and I keep a whip and a chair handy at all times.

OK, Here is what I (believe) I know about doublets:

1) Montrose= Double breasted, worn with a jabot and maybe belt, but no flaps ( Military collar )
2) Sherrifmuir= Buttons only at the top, flares out towards waist, worn with a waistcoat
3) Kenmore= Single breasted, worn with a jabot, has flaps ( and military collar )
4) Mystery doublet, probably BALMORAL , has flaps and lapels
http://www.highlandclans.co.uk/Balmo...t_Doublet.html

The trick about the Balmoral is that it seems to be wearable either with lapels or quite possibly with the collar turned up. Similarly, it can take a belt or can be worn open, in which case it greatly resembles the regulation doublet. Smarter men than I can probably post a handy doublet recognition chart.

(In which case, we would have to include #5, the Regulation and possibly ( hisssss) #6, the much rented PC[ )

Who will provide us with said chart? And who can offer illustrated suggestions on other velvet confections?

**Jock Scot** · 27th October 09, 04:32 PM

Originally Posted by MacLowlife

Thanks for the warning about the velvet, Bugbear, I try not to be alone in a room with it and I keep a whip and a chair handy at all times.

OK, Here is what I (believe) I know about doublets:

1) Montrose= Double breasted, worn with a jabot and maybe belt, but no flaps ( Military collar )
2) Sherrifmuir= Buttons only at the top, flares out towards waist, worn with a waistcoat
3) Kenmore= Single breasted, worn with a jabot, has flaps ( and military collar )
4) Mystery doublet, probably BALMORAL , has flaps and lapels
http://www.highlandclans.co.uk/Balmo...t_Doublet.html

The trick about the Balmoral is that it seems to be wearable either with lapels or quite possibly with the collar turned up. Similarly, it can take a belt or can be worn open, in which case it greatly resembles the regulation doublet. Smarter men than I can probably post a handy doublet recognition chart.

(In which case, we would have to include #5, the Regulation and possibly ( hisssss) #6, the much rented PC[ )

Who will provide us with said chart? And who can offer illustrated suggestions on other velvet confections?

As much as I hate throwing a spanner into the works of your well oiled machine, be warned! Not all tailors in Scotland and perhaps the world for all I know, call their jackets by the same name and some call their jackets by a name that might say to you in your minds eye one thing and they will mean a completely different style that you also think you have in your minds eye. I dare not give you an example in case I confuse you even more!MAKE SURE YOU SEE A PICTURE.