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4th November 10, 03:21 AM
#31
Pleating to the sett is possible sometimes with a four yard kilt, but not always. It depends on the sett size. I can affect pleating to the sett by pleating to every other alternate stripe. For instance, if we label the pivots A and B, and numbered them sequentially as in A1 B1 A2 B2 A3 B3, etc., what I would do in order to pleat to sett is lay the pleats out thusly:
A1 B2 A4 B5 A7 etc.
In other words, there is a full repeat of the sett "hidden" in each pleat. I tend to do this when dealing with sett sizes a bit smaller than average, but not so small that I could just double the sett size and pleat to every other occurrence of the pivot (A1 A3 A5 A7 etc. in the above example). In essence, I multiply the sett size by 1.5 for the pleating.
I did this in a reproduction Armstrong kilt for myself, that had a sett size of 6". Average sett size I find to be between 7" and 9" (7.25" seems to be most common). I try to make the pleats about 1/3 the size of the sett at the hips. For a 6" sett that means 2" pleats which are doable, but a bit on the small size for a four yard box pleated kilt. If I "doubled" the sett size and pleated to every second pivot that would mean an effective repeat of 12" which is much larger than normal and itself presents problems. So I multiplied the sett size by 1.5 and pleated as described above. Here's what it looks like:

So, to sum up, pleating to the sett is possible, but generally just with tartans with slightly smaller than average repeats. I have to be able to multiply the sett size by 1.5 and still have a reasonable size. I don't have Terry's cloth right here before me now, but I recall this having a sett size of more than 7" so I wouldn't recommend pleating to the sett, though Terry, if you really want it, I'd see what I can do.
Another reason why I don't normally advocate pleating to the sett in a traditional four yard box pleated kilt is because I base these (as much as I can) on the historical fashion. Even though I make mine as modern-day kilts, not museum replicas (in terms of the details such as leather straps and buckles, lining, etc.) I do like to give a nod to history when I can. In the early nineteenth century hey-day of the four yard box pleated kilt, pleating to the stripe was the dominant style. Military kilts were always pleated to stripe. Civilian kilts were initially pleated to no pattern at all, but were also pleated to stripe after about 1815~1820 or thereabouts. Pleating to the sett didn't become fashion until the end of the nineteenth century, when knife pleating was the dominant style and the material in the kilt had increased to about 8 yards.
Lastly, regarding the MacDougall kilt, that was an example of having to get creative when faced with an unusually large sett size. I don't recall exactly how large that repeat is, but it may have been in excess of 14". So I effectively cut it in half, pleating to every other pivot (but without skipping a full repeat as I would do if I were pleating to the sett). Again, if we label the pivots A and B, whereas normally pleating to the stripe would go either AAAAAA or BBBBBB, in this case it runs ABABABAB, giving the effect you see pictured. This really can only be done with either very large setts, like the MacDougall, or very small setts where you can double the sett size and pleat to alternate lines.
The MacDonald of Keppoch tartan we are dealing with has a perfectly average sett size, so none of these special considerations really apply. So I'd stick with one of the two pleating options I've shown, as I think they would work best.
But, as I said, if Terry wants something different, I can try to make it happen or at least explain why I can't. :-)
M
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4th November 10, 04:07 AM
#32
Thank you Matt for your most informative and interesting reply.
" Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the adherence of idle minds and minor tyrants". Field Marshal Lord Slim.
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4th November 10, 12:48 PM
#33
 Originally Posted by Jock Scot
Thank you Matt for your most informative and interesting reply.
Indeed...thank you Matt.
And with that I think I'll stick with my choice of the "lighter/brighter" red field pleats as seen in photo #2 
Thanks again Matt & everyone!
[SIZE="2"][FONT="Georgia"][COLOR="DarkGreen"][B][I]T. E. ("TERRY") HOLMES[/I][/B][/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE="1"][FONT="Georgia"][COLOR="DarkGreen"][B][I]proud descendant of the McReynolds/MacRanalds of Ulster & Keppoch, Somerled & Robert the Bruce.[/SIZE]
[SIZE="1"]"Ah, here comes the Bold Highlander. No @rse in his breeks but too proud to tug his forelock..." Rob Roy (1995)[/I][/B][/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
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29th November 10, 01:49 PM
#34
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3rd December 10, 12:37 AM
#35
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3rd December 10, 03:59 AM
#36
Now that really is poor service. A working week from NC to DC?
It’s as bad as the South African Post Office!
Regards,
Mike
PS: Let us know (with pics) when it does arrive!
The fear of the Lord is a fountain of life.
[Proverbs 14:27]
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3rd December 10, 04:09 AM
#37
 Originally Posted by Mike_Oettle
Now that really is poor service. A working week from NC to DC?
It’s as bad as the South African Post Office!
Regards,
Mike
PS: Let us know (with pics) when it does arrive!
I might be mistaken but I think it is traveling all the way to Washington state not DC. So from the south eastern US all the way to the extreme north west US about 2500 miles or more. Just saying Fed Ex is actually pretty good especially compared to the US post office which leaves a lot to be desired.
"Blood is the price of victory"
- Karl von Clausewitz
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3rd December 10, 08:47 AM
#38
The "other Washington" as we say out west here
[SIZE="2"][FONT="Georgia"][COLOR="DarkGreen"][B][I]T. E. ("TERRY") HOLMES[/I][/B][/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
[SIZE="1"][FONT="Georgia"][COLOR="DarkGreen"][B][I]proud descendant of the McReynolds/MacRanalds of Ulster & Keppoch, Somerled & Robert the Bruce.[/SIZE]
[SIZE="1"]"Ah, here comes the Bold Highlander. No @rse in his breeks but too proud to tug his forelock..." Rob Roy (1995)[/I][/B][/COLOR][/FONT][/SIZE]
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3rd December 10, 09:06 AM
#39
Awesome tartan, and great choice of mill! All of my kilts are of the Lochcarron Strome heavyweight variety. I agree with Jock and would pleat this particular tartan to the sett. Have you visited the official Macdonald of Keppoch website? Quite interesting...especially the current Chief's son's names in Gaelic (to include the Chief's as well) - very neat!
Cheers Terry and well done mate!!!
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3rd December 10, 12:30 PM
#40
The fear of the Lord is a fountain of life.
[Proverbs 14:27]
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