Do kilts have a "break-in" period?

**Tobus** · 24th January 12, 06:42 AM

Originally Posted by crash

Same for me. I'm kinda sorry it's over.

Speak for yourself! I'm glad it's over, because now I have my kilt back.

I'd like to say once again that I very much appreciate all the advice and information in this thread. My original question, based on a lack of knowledge about the finer points of kilt construction, led to the sharing of good information, discovery of a real problem, and a satisfactory resolution.

I really think this thread needs to be pinned to the top of this forum (or maybe the Professional Kiltmakers Hints and Tips forum) for posterity. Maybe a sanitized version with just the technical posts by Steve? Or perhaps maybe Steve could condense his technical posts into a new thread and post it as an informative tutorial by itself? I dunno. I'd just hate for the great information and photos here to end up "lost" as the thread drifts further and further back into the archives.

That's Steve's decision, of course. But technical posts like the ones he made here are the type of invaluable information that make this board the premier forum for talking about kilts.

**Steve Ashton** · 24th January 12, 10:47 AM

Tobus,

There is still one post to this thread that is just crying out to be made.

Does the kilt fit and does it still seem to change size?

Is your original problem resolved?

**Ryan Ross** · 24th January 12, 12:02 PM

Mr. Ashton, this thread has been well beyond fascinating, and I wanted to thank you for documenting the process so fully and sharing it with us. I feel like I have a much increased understanding of kilt construction, now!

EDIT: And I second the call for pictoral proof!

**opositive** · 24th January 12, 09:41 PM

this thread reminds me a lot of the sort of thing i researched several years ago when i changed jobs and needed wardrobe upgrades on a budget. i learned about canvas/half canvas, etc jackets, brands/label colors/different years. like wine or cars--even when you look at the same vineyard or model, some periods are better than others. budget conscious/more likely mass produced means making the best bet, while hand made/custom items are the guarantee.

**Father Bill** · 24th February 12, 09:22 AM

This morning I've realized that the implications of all of this are absolutely critical with regards to advice that is frequently given on this forum. It has often been said by our experts that if a kilt needs to be taken in or let out, it is easy to move the one buckle and the opposite strap.

If these comments about the stabilizer are as important as suggested here (and I have no doubt about that!) then it is vitally important that in re-attaching them, the stitches go all the way through in order to engage the stabilizer.

Steve, John, Barb - your expert and experienced comments on this will be much appreciated.

This morning, I took my Celtic Craft Centre tank out of the closet and could clearly see that there was exactly the distortion mentioned next to the buckle. Well, I had moved it when it was delivered because the kilt was too loose. (John, as you know from when you measured me up for my next one, I like my kilt tight.) I had moved the buckle myself, but not stitched right through.

So... I took out my needle and thread and stitched right through... and it flunked Steve's stretch test again. Now I'm really worried!

Comments from the experts?

Bill

**The Wizard of BC** · 24th February 12, 10:22 AM

Father Bill,

You are correct. If the straps and buckles are moved to re-size a kilt the stitching must go all the way through the stabilizer and the interfacing. This includes the right side buckles that you move and also the left strap that you move.

You should also insure that when you sew the buckles back on that you do not stretch the kilt too much. If, while the buckles are off and you stretch the pleats till you put the stress on the pleat stitching, and then sew the buckle on there you have just defeated to purpose of the stabilizer.

A quick way to check if your kilt does indeed even have stabilizer is to lay the kilt out on a table with no stretch in the pleated area. Stick some pins, or better yet safety pins, through the pleats in a line with the buckles. Insure the pins go all the way through the pleats, stabilizer, interfacing and the liner.

When you have the pins in you can do the stretch test again. If you have caught the stabilizer you should be able to see the pins pull and try to take up the stress.

If the pleats still stretch to the point where the stress is on the stitching your kilt may not have the stabilizer. You may have to take the kilt apart and install one.

**Father Bill** · 24th February 12, 11:32 AM

Steve, I'm not sure which direction you want the pins in - parallel to the pleats, or horizontally across them. My kilt is lying on the bed waiting for your instructions!

**Steve Ashton** · 24th February 12, 11:55 AM

I guess I would not really matter Father Bill. If I were doing this I would insert the safety pins perpendicular to the length of the stabilizer.

Or in other words up and down relative to the kilt and following along the line of the pleats.

The idea is to catch the stabilizer. Then when you pull on the pleats you should see if the pins try to move indicating that the stabilizer is there and trying to take the stress. If the pins don't move or show signs of being stuck through something inside the kilt then it would be a good bet that your kilt does not have a stabilizer.

**Father Bill** · 24th February 12, 12:05 PM

Good grief! One clearly moves (the one near the buckle I re-sewed this morning, where the distortion is) the other stays stock still. I suspect that means that I've just missed it with the pin, although I've tried re-pinning it a couple of times.

I think that when I pick up my new box-pleat from John, I'll ask him to make an assessment. I worry about this much beloved, expensive tank!