Tartan of the Month - Jun 12: What do you see?

[figheadair]

Are you implying that a plain weave is used for household and general use? Would it be used for a great kilt as opposed to a pleated and sewn kilt? Or perhaps it was a table or bed cover or perhaps a lady's gown? Maybe, even....curtains?

I was indeed implying something of that sort. So, what's the difference, apart from the obvious, between twill and plain weave i.e. why is one used more often?

[Paul Henry]

A twill weave is often 2/2 which means that the "rib" is 2 over 2 under, to do which you need a more slightly more sophistcated loom with 4 harnesses, rather than the only 2 for a tabby weave. The tabby weave is very simple,and often even slightly thinner than a twill, so most likely also slightly faster or cheaper to produce , it's not as hard wearing as a twill either , so very much a general purpose cloth.

[figheadair]

A twill weave is often 2/2 which means that the "rib" is 2 over 2 under, to do which you need a more slightly more sophistcated loom with 4 harnesses, rather than the only 2 for a tabby weave. The tabby weave is very simple,and often even slightly thinner than a twill, so most likely also slightly faster or cheaper to produce , it's not as hard wearing as a twill either , so very much a general purpose cloth.

Good. The other thing about a 2/2 twill is that structurally it's the best weave for clothing which is why it was used for plaids etc and also cloth like denim.

[KenB]

Is it possible this piece is a "sampler" made by a novice weaver learning the art? Just something to hone your skills at!

[xman]

Could be another curtain, blanket or similar cloth then. If so then it needn't be as old as I first suspected. Perhaps proscription era.

[Dangerdean]

Okay, throwing something out there. I really know nothing about weaves and twill and such. I have textile geek friends for that.
However:
-small piece of fabric
-displayed with a brooch
-implications that it's part of a collection

Could this be grave clothes of some sort, preserved by proximity to a brooch or other metal finery? I know this is how small examples of ancient Scandinavian fabric has been preserved, usually in graves of women, as they wore the recognizable metal gear.

[Chaitanya]

Since I don't have a clue, I'm just gonna' read and learn

[figheadair]

Could be another curtain, blanket or similar cloth then. If so then it needn't be as old as I first suspected. Perhaps proscription era.

It's plain weave so I doubt it and besides, there is no evidence of bespoke tartan curtains before the mid-late C19th. That's not to say that cloth wasn't reused as is the case at Dunollie House. But once again, I have to re-emphasis that it's impossible to know the exact use of such a small piece and we are into the realms of guess work; but, there's educated guesswork and wild speculation.

Okay, throwing something out there. I really know nothing about weaves and twill and such. I have textile geek friends for that.
However:
-small piece of fabric - yes
-displayed with a brooch - yes
-implications that it's part of a collection - yes

Could this be grave clothes of some sort, preserved by proximity to a brooch or other metal finery? I know this is how small examples of ancient Scandinavian fabric has been preserved, usually in graves of women, as they wore the recognizable metal gear.

That's an interesting deduction but no evidence of being from a grave. In fact, textiles don't survive very well in Scottish soil which is why so little has been found. However, the connection to women's use is probably correct. Why so?

[figheadair]

See the first reply to #53.

[Dangerdean]

So there's a connection to women's use, and there were implications several posts back that a certain type of weave is more structurally sound. Could it be something weight-bearing, like a sling for an infant?