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26th February 08, 10:05 AM
#1
 Originally Posted by Nanook
With bespoke (in contrast to made-to-order) shoes a peronalized last is created--- based upon an existing pattern but built around the specifics of the customer foot. Increasingly bespoke shoes (in orthopedic applications) use computer generated lasts (cut using CNC machines). The fine bespoke makers use wood, lathes and hand-tools but that's also part of the mystique and allure. Since shoe fit is philosophical there are no absolutes of fit only general concepts of ill-fit. In the 1920s several shoemakers took to using X-rays to examine the foot in shoe to judge fit.
Retrived from Wikipedia
Bespoke is usually a British English term for tailored clothing made at a customer's behest, and exactly to the customer's specification. Bespoke clothing is created without use of a pre-existing pattern, differentiating it from made to measure, which alters a standard-sized pattern to fit the customer.
Made to measure typically refers to clothing that is sewn from a standard-sized base pattern. A tailored suit is a common example of a made-to-measure garment. The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment because ready-to-wear garments are constructed to fit the manufacturer’s definition of an average customer, while made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually.
Frank
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26th February 08, 10:33 AM
#2
 Originally Posted by Highland Logan
Retrived from Wikipedia
The Wiki pedia is hardly Talmud.
Bespoke is usually a British English term for tailored clothing made at a customer's behest, and exactly to the customer's specification.
So the marketing.. What's that slogan from SubWay? "Eat Fresh" :-)
Bespoke clothing is created without use of a pre-existing pattern, differentiating it from made to measure, which alters a standard-sized pattern to fit the customer.
The reality is that one does not design new clothing for the king. Even up to the 1950s when bespoke was still "be spoke" it did not entail a new design pattern but comparatively minor modifications of existing patterns (from a large collection that a good shop would have) to fit a customer. During the construction the tailoring would be modified (its just applied geometry with a few points that one can easily shift to get a desired effect) and tuned.
Made to measure typically refers to clothing that is sewn from a standard-sized base pattern.
These terms never meant anything about quality and now in the era of computer controlled textile production these terms increasingly mean nothing at all.
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23rd February 08, 11:16 PM
#3
Back to Kilt hose - All kilt hose look thin and only barely turn over when they are stretched around my huge calfs. I have knitted a pair myself and they look good but without buying hanc knitted they all look thin.
Mark Keeney
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24th February 08, 09:11 AM
#4
 Originally Posted by Mark Keeney
Back to Kilt hose - All kilt hose look thin and only barely turn over when they are stretched around my huge calfs. I have knitted a pair myself and they look good but without buying hanc knitted they all look thin.
I don't agree. Have you tried House of Edgar or Hawick? Unless you are sized like Ronny Coleman (23 inch calves) I can't see them stretching to be "thin".
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25th February 08, 02:53 PM
#5
Not sure what people mean when they say "cheap hose" since you can pick them up at the mill for fairly inexpensively (£4). Bought online and shipped to the US, 4 pair will run you roughly $13 a piece postage included. They aren't hand woven or anything, but they are the real deal. Decent Hose in the States cost around $20 at most retailers.
Of course, some snobs might scream that there are synthetic fibres in these hose, but the manufacturer does sell them under a brand name. Which can't be mentioned at those prices.
So, I am not sure why people wear everyday dress socks under these circumstances, or even the crappy rental hose out there.
On the other hand, you don't need to blow £200 for hose. US$20/£10 can pick up some decent hose that will last.
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15th March 08, 04:32 AM
#6
 Originally Posted by Dukeof Kircaldy
Not sure what people mean when they say "cheap hose" since you can pick them up at the mill for fairly inexpensively (£4). Bought online and shipped to the US, 4 pair will run you roughly $13 a piece postage included. They aren't hand woven or anything, but they are the real deal. Decent Hose in the States cost around $20 at most retailers.
Lets be honest, what kind of hose can you expect for £4.00 ? Its not really a realistic price for socks of any description although i wouldnt suggest every should wear £100 kilt hose it is obvious you cannot really compae the two. We are too accustomed to cheap imported chinese clothing which is often just disposable clothing to see the value of a pair of hand linked argyll hose made in merino wool in a british factory paying decent wages.
As for the shoes i saw pictured, they might not be ghillie brogues but they were a fine looking pair of shoes and a heck of alot better than alot of so called ghillie brogues one can see people wearing.
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16th March 08, 11:56 AM
#7
Back to hose !
I often make a compromise in buying Swiss mountain walking hose AND add home made knitting to make it tip-top.
Robert Amyot-MacKinnon
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25th February 08, 04:02 PM
#8
 Originally Posted by Nanook
Harwick seems to be a mixed bag. I have some pairs of heavy cashmere/silk (50/50) hose and socks from them that are absolutely wold class. Most of the socks I've more recently seen in shops, by contrast, seem nice but common polywool (and vastly inferior to my "more common" hose from Hose of Edgar). At the other end , however, I've heard that they've taken to make some socks of out Vicuna wool-- not that I've ever buy a pair. Corgi is another company that have made some fine kilt hose over the years but today seems to offer a mixed bag (from high end to mass market).
Nanook
Do you recall what it is that you write up? First you reply to me by saying that in your experience Hawick hose are a "mixed bag", then a few pages later you are recommending them to someone...
 Originally Posted by Nanook
I don't agree. Have you tried House of Edgar or Hawick? Unless you are sized like Ronny Coleman (23 inch calves) I can't see them stretching to be "thin".
I think there are times when you are contrary just to be so, if in fact, as I have stated Hawick Hose are some of the best on the market for the price point why would you disagree with what I had to say about them?
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25th February 08, 04:24 PM
#9
Because some people like being contrary. I'm glad you like Hawick, but you're going to have to dig to find the manufacturer's outlet!
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25th February 08, 04:34 PM
#10
Hawick's US representative
 Originally Posted by Dukeof Kircaldy
Because some people like being contrary. I'm glad you like Hawick, but you're going to have to dig to find the manufacturer's outlet!
I wrote them and received this reply:
<<<We have an agent in the USA who will be able to help you, his details are:
Jeff Robertson
Caledonian Fine Arts
12 Hatchetts Hill Rd
Old Lyme
Connecticut CT 06371
Tel 860 434 8899>>>
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