Altering A Kilt Jacket

[LANCER1562]

I've seen lots of threads on how to convert a Saxon jacket into a kilt jacket but what I want to know is what is the most effective and least expensive way to alter a jacket specifically made to wear with a kilt?

I have a black wool Argyle jacket that is really to large for me. I want to have the body taken in and the sleeves shortened but I don't want to spend as much to have the thing altered as I paid for the jacket in the first place. Any ideas?

[Mickey]

If it were me, I would have a shop that does alterations take the jacket in, but do the sleeves and length myself. Those aren't really that difficult, but I haven't quite figured out adjusting for width, at least well enough to mess with a nice jacket.

[LANCER1562]

Mickey,

Since the Argyle is cut sort of like a Spencer or an Eton formal wear jacket, I took it to two bridal shops and a Men's Warehouse to see if they could alter it and all three told me they could do the work but that it would cost me between $100 and $125. I paid $100 including shipping for the jacket in the first place. If I wanted to spend that much I'd just go on line and find a jacket in my size and buy it. I'm sure there is a taylor or seamstress somewhere local that could do the job for a whole lot less and do a good job of it too.

[davidg]

I suspect you may be underestimating the amount of work involved

If there is a specific part of the jacket, such as the waist, that needs a minor taking in then that is easy enough but anything more than that becomes a major re-build. The $100 seems a very reasonable charge IMHO

However, if this is a large alteration you may not be happy with it after it is done. It takes considerable skill to keep everything in proportion and for most ready made items a jacket too large means too large by at least 2". That is a lot to take in without throwing everything out of proportion

[LANCER1562]

I'm going to try one more place in the morning and if they tell me the same thing, I'll post the jacket for sale and use the money to buy an Argyle that fits.

[Chas]

You can take in the width yourself by putting in a couple of darts (one either side where your kidneys are).

I would suggest getting hold of an old large shirt, that you no longer require (white is ideal, but any light colour will work). It is probably easier to have someone else mark it for you, as you will be wearing it. Mark where the jacket ends, so you know your working area. The two darts will be vertical and must be at the same height and of the same length. I would think 6" to a maximum of 8". If you pull your shirt from the front, you will see where your body starts to taper in below your shoulder-blades. that is where the top of the dart should start.

Points to remember -
The dart should be long and thin. You are doubling and doubling again. So if the dart is 1/2 inch at its widest, it will have taken 1" of material. Two darts equals 2" off the chest/waist of the jacket. Two inches is a lot. Work out how much you need to reduce the jacket by and divide by four to give the maximum dart width.

The dart should taper in and out with a shallow angle. A dart that looks like a half circle will never work.

Practice, practice, practice on the shirt. Use a long stitch for this. If not right, it is easy to unpick.

The final stitching on the jacket should be done with small stitches.

You don't need a fancy or industrial sewing machine. Any machine that gives a variable stitch length will do.

Good luck.

Regards

Chas

[LANCER1562]

Chas,

That might work if I had a sewing machine. For what I'm being charged for the alteration, I could get an Argyle from M H Geoffry on ebay ($124.99 USD+$25.00 USD S&H=$149.99). The set includes: Argyle jacket size 36" to 52", white rabbit fur sporran, sporran chain belt, sghain dubh and carrying bag for the Argyle jacket set. I already have a white rabbit fur sporran and several sghain dubhs, maybe they would be willing to exchange the sporran that comes with set for one of a different color and I could always give the sghain dubh to someone as a gift.

I'm also looking at their Prince Charlie Jacket set for $123.24USD+$17.24USD shipping. It's basically the same thing as the Argyle set except with a PC and waistcoat.

[Chas]

Robert,

M H Geoffry, is probably your best bet. I have dealt with them in the past, twice, and i do believe that they give value for money.

I have one of their white rabbit sporrans. I have often wondered if it could be dyed. After all we dye our hair and the rabbit fur is hair.

I am sure you could sell the old jacket here and the sgian and the sporran if Geoffry won't do a swap.

Regards

Chas

[Chas]

I have just had another thought. M H Geoffry also sell buckle brogues and gillie brogues and bullion badges.

It might be an idea to check out their non-eBay site and see what else they sell and might be willing to substitute.

Regards

Chas

[Pleater]

As someone who makes clothes - I can only advise that you sell the jacket and buy a smaller one.

A cheap alteration will often turn something that doesn't fit one person into a garment that doesn't fit anyone.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: