Kilt Question for the 'Rabble'

[creagdhubh]

Greetings,

I have compiled my own definitive list of the remaining kilts (Forever! This is it, no more!) in which I plan to order in the future, with the kilt woven in the Macpherson Reproduction Colours, by D.C. Dalgliesh, being at the very top of the queue. I have commissioned our forum's own, Barb Tewksbury, to make my first 'new' kilt, and I am quite confident I shall call upon her kilt-making skills for the other kilts I would like to have made, thereafter.

I should preface by saying that all of the kilts will be made of heavy-weight, pure new wool, ranging from 15-16 ounces in weight, but no heavier. One of the kilts, due to the nature of the tartan and its mill, will be made in 13 ounce, medium-weight, pure new wool (I could approach D.C. Dalgliesh to see if they could weave a similiar tartan in their heavy-weight fabric, foregoing the lighter weight wool, of a mere 13 ounces!). All of the kilts will also have the following specifications - no question: no rear belt loops, pleated to the line (Colour choice TBD, yet in my experience, pleating the Macpherson red-based setts to the double white line is always a good choice. And the Macpherson dress tartan would look rather smart if pleated to the double red line), double-fringe, and fully lined.

It may be obvious from the preceding details, that one part is missing...the leather straps and buckles. This is where my question shall be posed; based upon each tartan, what colour should I have the leather kilt straps be, brown or black? It is obvious to me, that the reproduction/weathered colours would look superb with brown leather kilt straps and brass buckles - I wouldn't do a brown strap with a silver buckle either - brass only, and silver for the black straps. Also, how many straps and buckles should I have? The standard three, or the more unusually seen, two? Presently, the kilts I currently own all have three black leather kilt straps with three silver buckles.

Here are the tartan setts of the Highland clan to which myself and my family belong. The list also includes the Clan Chattan Confederation, to which the Clan Macpherson has long been associated with, since at least 1609, when The Clan Chattan Confederation Band of Union was signed by the chiefs and/or chieftains of many Highland clans and tribes of Inverness-shire and Badenoch:

Macpherson Reproduction Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Macpherson Standard Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Macpherson Dress Standard Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Macpherson Weathered - Lochcarron - Strome


Macpherson Muted - House of Edgar - Medium-Weight Old & Rare Range (Could have D.C. Dalgliesh weave into their K1 heavy-weight cloth?)


Chattan Ancient - Lochcarron - Strome


Chattan Standard Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight


Chattan Reproduction Colours - D.C. Dalgliesh - K1 Heavy-Weight
(Tartan doesn't exist yet - special weave must be commissioned. I am in the process of altering D.C. Dalgliesh's standard colours version of the Chattan sett, to their reproduction colours, utilizing Scotweb's Tartan Designer - tartan image forthcoming)

I realise that this isn't that serious of a question, but in a sense, it is to me. I love the little details that make up a truly bespoke garment. So, what would the 'rabble' recommend based upon my tartan line-up?

Warmest regards,

[NewEnglander]

Cousin-
I don't have any experience with leathers other than black for my kilts, but I was wondering if you could direct me to some background information about "reproduction" colors. Also, my one wool kilt is in our muted/weathered tartan and it is truly beautiful. I'm anxious to see pictures of these kilts to come!
Creag Dubh!
-Eric-

[Cygnus]

My preferences:

MacPherson Standard: Black
MacPherson Dress: Black
MacPherson Weathered: Brown
MacPherson Muted: Brown
Chattan Ancient: Black (I prefer black, but think brown would look just fine)
Chattan Modern: Black
Chattan Reproduction: Brown

I do wish Chattan Clan Modern was more widely stocked as I much prefer it to the ancient shades (and it doesn't appear that Dalgliesh normally stocks it). Maybe someday I'll have some woven up.

[creagdhubh]

My preferences:

MacPherson Standard: Black
MacPherson Dress: Black
MacPherson Weathered: Brown
MacPherson Muted: Brown
Chattan Ancient: Black (I prefer black, but think brown would look just fine)
Chattan Modern: Black
Chattan Reproduction: Brown

I do wish Chattan Clan Modern was more widely stocked as I much prefer it to the ancient shades (and it doesn't appear that Dalgliesh normally stocks it). Maybe someday I'll have some woven up.

Thanks Cygnus. You are correct, Dalgliesh does not normally stock the Clan Chattan tartan in their standard (modern) colours, you must request them to weave it for you. They have obviously woven this particular sett in the past, and it is a lovely variant of the Chattan sett, indeed.

I like the ancient colours woven by Lochcarron too - not many chaps like the predominant colour of 'orange' that is typically seen in many of the red-based, 'ancient' coloured tartans, but I do.

Cheers,

[DavidB80911]

A Beau Brummel I am not. But as far as the kilt straps, if the straps are black, black sporran and shoes. Brown straps, sporran and shoes.

The color of shoes should match the belt or sporran. You don't wear brown shoes with a black tux.

[Downunder Kilt]

A Beau Brummel I am not. But as far as the kilt straps, if the straps are black, black sporran and shoes. Brown straps, sporran and shoes.

The color of shoes should match the belt or sporran. You don't wear brown shoes with a black tux.

Maybe if we are wearing clothes with the saxon matchy matchy style in mind, but this is kilt world, the Scottish way, where colours don't need to match.

[Jock Scot]

A Beau Brummel I am not. But as far as the kilt straps, if the straps are black, black sporran and shoes. Brown straps, sporran and shoes.

The color of shoes should match the belt or sporran. You don't wear brown shoes with a black tux.

I am no Beau Brummel either, but in fact, for normal Highland day wear it is quite common and acceptable to mix leather colours. I would not even consider my kilt straps in this equation though and I doubt many Scots would and of course if you only have two kilt straps, out of sight for most of the time, who would know, or,
frankly, care? Personally, with my old army eyes, I prefer the leathers to match, but it is not necessary, for day wear. So I find a black day kilt belt(with a "spike" brass buckle), black day sporran and strap far more versatile and the sporran can, at a pinch, be used for almost any occasion. .

For formal occasions then I think more thought is required as black foot wear are the foundation of for formal attire(do we all agree?). However much is solved for us by the need for a silver(coloured) sporran chain and a multitude of fairly sober coloured sporran leather and perhaps a shiny metal cantle.

[creagdhubh]

I am no Beau Brummel either, but in fact, for normal Highland day wear it is quite common and acceptable to mix leather colours. I would not even consider my kilt straps in this equation though and I doubt many Scots would and of course if you only have two kilt straps, out of sight for most of the time, who would know, or,
frankly, care? Personally, with my old army eyes, I prefer the leathers to match, but it is not necessary, for day wear. So I find a black day kilt belt(with a "spike" brass buckle), black day sporran and strap far more versatile and the sporran can, at a pinch, be used for almost any occasion. .

For formal occasions then I think more thought is required as black foot wear are the foundation of for formal attire(do we all agree?). However much is solved for us by the need for a silver(coloured) sporran chain and a multitude of fairly sober coloured sporran leather and perhaps a shiny metal cantle.

Quite right, Jock.

Thanks,

[Silent Raven]

Cousin,
I am onyl going to comment on the one that i have first hand knowledge of; the macpherson dress, i would go with black and silver and only 2 buckles. for thats what i have on mine and i really like it, i dont think brown would go well with so much white and i like the look and feel of the two buckles rather than 3 and its a bit different than what is normally done so it stands out a bit more.



a pic of my macpherson dress with only 2 buckles

[creagdhubh]

Cousin,
I am onyl going to comment on the one that i have first hand knowledge of; the macpherson dress, i would go with black and silver and only 2 buckles. for thats what i have on mine and i really like it, i dont think brown would go well with so much white and i like the look and feel of the two buckles rather than 3 and its a bit different than what is normally done so it stands out a bit more.



a pic of my macpherson dress with only 2 buckles

Very good. I have decided on two straps for the Macpherson Dress kilt since I will be wearing a high-cut, velveteen doublet or coatee at times, and do not wish for a third strap to show with the dress tartan. My dress tartan has the scarlet double stripe, instead of the magenta in yours. The latter was first developed commerically by William Anderson and Sons, and not by the Clan Macpherson Chief at the time, Cluny-Macpherson (often called, 'Old-Cluny,' who died in 1885). The original Macpherson Dress (also called 'Macpherson of Cluny') tartan, had double scarlet (red) lines and not the magenta (purple), often seen today. However, Cluny has approved both for wear.

Creag Dhubh cousin!