Dye from Strap

[super8mm]

Thanks Frank, I might stop by my local cobbler and see if he can make a couple of straps with dye that wont stain

[Luke MacGillie]

The "Joy" of modern leather work. The tanning and the dying were probably combined, thus that strap is going to be bleeding dye that has soaked all the way thru forever.

You can perhaps use something like Fiebrings bag kote. But sealing the back side, the rough side where the actual transfer is happening is going to continue to be an issue IMHO.

Looking at many period pieces, the way the items were dyed, its not pleasing to the modern eye, and thus here we are. Way back when, the hide, straight out of the bark tan vat, still wet with the tannic acid, would be brushed with a rag that was wet with a vinegar/iron mixture, and the reaction would turn the slick side black. Then the leather was cut. We know this because when you look at old pieces the edges of the object are not dyed.

[Highland Logan]

The "Joy" of modern leather work. The tanning and the dying were probably combined, thus that strap is going to be bleeding dye that has soaked all the way thru forever.

You can perhaps use something like Fiebrings bag kote. But sealing the back side, the rough side where the actual transfer is happening is going to continue to be an issue IMHO.

Looking at many period pieces, the way the items were dyed, its not pleasing to the modern eye, and thus here we are. Way back when, the hide, straight out of the bark tan vat, still wet with the tannic acid, would be brushed with a rag that was wet with a vinegar/iron mixture, and the reaction would turn the slick side black. Then the leather was cut. We know this because when you look at old pieces the edges of the object are not dyed.

Awesome info. Thanks for sharing.

Frank

[Alisdair]

If you really want to keep that strap, my advice to you as a leatherworker is to buy a small bottle of Resolene. It's an acrylic leather finish, which would seal the dye in. Dilute the Resolene 1:1 with water (otherwise, the result will be streaky). Apply two or three LIGHT coats (I use a primitive spray gun, but you can use a basic wool dauber) and let it dry thoroughly between each coat.


Otherwise, I'm sure you can find a local leathercrafter to make you a custom strap or belt.

[McMurdo]

I went to my local Tandy Leather store picked up a few belt blanks some black and two brown dyes, measured & punched holes, dyed them and sealed them they have never run and have given a decade of service.

[Singlemalt]

If you want leather sporran belts that will last several lifetimes go to a saddlery store that sells English style tack (not cowboy style western saddles). Stirrup leathers are just about perfect. They come in various lengths, qualities and colours with a pleasing small buckle system. What I really like about them is they are far stronger than a sporran belt needs to be but this strength comes with a perfect amount of stiffness which makes the sporran hang very well.

[bdkilted]

Steve;
I've had that problem with some belts I've made. I solved it with a clear lacquer spray made for leather. I know the purist say to never lacquer leather because it won't breath, but it is a belt, not shoes, and it works for me.
BD