Military Kilt repairs

[Barb T]

The outer apron is strange too. It is not symmetrical. As you can see in this photo the crease on the left side is totally different from the right side.

Actually, the aprons of the kilts I make are not symmetrical, either. I always add an inch to the right hand apron edge just to make sure that the fringe edge covers the underapron. The kilt you're working on looks like it has a little more than an inch extra on the apron edge, but, if you look at your own Highland Granite, you'll see that the center front stripe is not in the numerical center of the apron!

[The Wizard of BC]

Thanks Barb, I did notice that and am using "THE BOOK" as my guide.
However as you noticed this apron is not even close. It is 2" off. And where the stripe on the left edge disappears is so much different from the right side that I thought, "Oh what the heck, I have the thing apart anyway".

I also found that the apron edge shaping is not a smooth curve but wavers noticeably around the Hip line. I suspect that this is from an attempt to iron the kilt at some time. There was a line of machine stitching on the outer apron left edge using an ugly light green thread from a previous alteration attempt. I know it's a later alteration because I found the original stitching still there tucked under a fold.

Most of the pleat stitching uses a big fat yarn like stuff. The knots at the ends of these yarns are big and ugly and there must be 5 or 6 of them per pleat.


ps if a box arrives on your doorstep don't be surprised with what you may find in it.

[Barb T]

Urrrr - don't you dare....! I bow to your determination to take this on. I would have fainted dead away if someone had brought this to me!

[Pleater]

I used tiny spots of glue to secure individual threads onto a tape, so they could not slide out if the edge of the cloak was trodden on.

I had already sewn the tape in place before turning up the hem - it is a common trick on curved hems to use a bias tape and make a fairly narrow single layer hem with the raw edge covered by a tape.

If I could have got an iron on tape that would curve I would have used that, but as with a lot of things in garment reconstruction you take what is available and work with it.

The iron on interfacing is a life saver as it stabilises cut edges, reduces holes and then withstands washing.

Once in place you can sew through it to restore the seam, even if you are right on the edge of the remaining cloth, because the threads are held so they can't start to slide through the stitches.

[Macman]

Wow, Steve - I recognize that kilt! I wore it 36 years ago! It was in better shape then.

[Arlen]

I've been following this but wanted to find out a bit more before I commented.
From what I can see you're doing a fantastic job so far. And I'm surprised to see a Loaner Kilt that has lasted so long. It's been well worn and it looks like you are going to help it get a few more years.

Well done, Steve.

[The Wizard of BC]

I had a chance to spend some time working on the Military Kilts so I thought I would post an update.

When I took to old worn waistband off I found that this kilt did indeed originally have a reverse pleat. So I thought what the heck, I've gone this far I might as well put it back in.

The first thing I have to do is re-establish the under-apron right side taper.
Here you can see my method of doing that. Note that I am using a trick from my yacht design days. The curved line is laid out with a flexible batten and some lead weights called 'ducks'.



Here is a shot from a different angle showing the amount of apron taper and the curve.




Once the aprons are basted and pressed I was able to finish the basting.
Now that everything is back in its proper alignment it is starting to look like a kilt again.



Here is what the inside looks like at this stage.
Even though the Fell stitches are missing it doesn't look too bad.



The next step will be to re-stitch all the pleats in the Fell. Most of the stitches are loose and done with a very large yarn like stuff. So wish me luck as I begin the long process of stitching.

[12stones]

Wow... gotta say that it looks completely different. Good luck on the rest of it. Can't wait to see the finished results.

[pdcorlis]

Its A L I V E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Hamish]

Steve, I really take my hat off to you, as I would to any kiltmaker or anyone attempting to make their own kilt (not the same thing!), for having taken this one on in the first place. That you have made such fine progress is to be applauded and, I believe, indicates that a competent engineer is undertaking this restoration. Very well done!

I still cannot get my head around the washing, in water, of a traditional, woollen kilt - Woolite or no Woolite! Maybe it is because neither of the washing machines I have ever owned has had a cold, or even cool, wash setting. Obviously it can be done, but I would never risk it.

Cannot wait to see your finished handiwork.

Take care,
Ham.