Wearing the kilt...

[M. A. C. Newsome]

If, as I have read, the great kilt developed relatively late in Scottish history, what was it that triggered the inhabitants of the Highlands to change their style of dress from the leine and brat to the kilt?

Of course we don't know for certain, because they are no longer around to ask after 400+ years, but we do have our theories.

The feilidh-mhor ("great kilt") evolved from the brat or plaid. It originated as simply a long wrap (feilidh in Gaelic) that was gathered and belted at the waist, rather than just draped over the shoulder. This adaptation occurred towards the very end of the sixteenth century.

I have encountered at least two different theories as to why, and both are beleivable, and I think both are probably true.

The first factor is that the cost of wool dropped considerably in the late sixteenth century. There apparantly was a glut on the market at the time, and this made it less expensive, so the average person could afford to purchase more woolen cloth. Keep in mind the fashion at the time was for excess cloth in clothing. Look at some late sixteenth century depictions of the leinte, and you will see very long sleeves, pleated skirts, and basically a lot of cloth. Apply the same fashion of excess cloth to the brat or mantle, and you easily end up with a length that requires belting on to keep it all together.

The second factor was that apparantly around this time Europe entered into a "mini-Ice Age" resulting in temperature drops in places such as.... Scotland! Add colder weather to the above mentioned lower-cost wool and affection for excess fabric, and the feilidh-mhor is born!