Quote Originally Posted by M. A. C. Newsome View Post
Of course we don't know for certain, because they are no longer around to ask after 400+ years, but we do have our theories.

The feilidh-mhor ("great kilt") evolved from the brat or plaid. It originated as simply a long wrap (feilidh in Gaelic) that was gathered and belted at the waist, rather than just draped over the shoulder. This adaptation occurred towards the very end of the sixteenth century.

I have encountered at least two different theories as to why, and both are beleivable, and I think both are probably true.

The first factor is that the cost of wool dropped considerably in the late sixteenth century. There apparantly was a glut on the market at the time, and this made it less expensive, so the average person could afford to purchase more woolen cloth. Keep in mind the fashion at the time was for excess cloth in clothing. Look at some late sixteenth century depictions of the leinte, and you will see very long sleeves, pleated skirts, and basically a lot of cloth. Apply the same fashion of excess cloth to the brat or mantle, and you easily end up with a length that requires belting on to keep it all together.

The second factor was that apparantly around this time Europe entered into a "mini-Ice Age" resulting in temperature drops in places such as.... Scotland! Add colder weather to the above mentioned lower-cost wool and affection for excess fabric, and the feilidh-mhor is born!
wow. research results. i'm impressed.

related thoughts...
i think the use of lots of material was more in use by nobility and rich folks, and i suspect the poor had to make do with what they could get so long as it met their needs. when they could they used lots of cloth, but huge billowing anything got in the way of those who had to actually work. as a wearer of the great kilt i can tell you that less than six yards would limit it usefulness. most of the folks i see wearing one use a belt to control the billowing folds. i leave them blowing to have their use as pockets for bulky items that won't fit in a sporran. less than six yards would leave me without those useful pouches.

as far as the leine, i tend to stay away from them. i lean toward the jacobite style shirt as a more practical piece of attire. and even then, i use a lace on cuff to keep the sleeves out of leather dyes. my wife wears a leine at games and ties the sleeves back to cook. it makes it practical for her, but i would ruin one quickly.

all of which is just my opinion, which will buy me a cup of coffee so long as i add the appropriate amount of money to pay for it.