I have not seen my method diagramed anywhere, but here's how I have been doing it for about 15 years:

1. Lay belt with the inside up and buckle to your left, on a bed or floor.

2. Lay length of plaid with one end of the piece touching the buckle, and the center of the belt allowing the bottom half to hit exactly where you want your hemline.

3. Measure off 1/3 of your waist measurement from buckle-this stays unpleated.

4. Pleat 1/3 of your waist measurement-this means adding up the combined pleats to equal 1/3. For winter, I do this in 6-sett increments. For summer, 4.

5. Lay down with the 1/3 pleated portion in the center of your back. Fold LEFT hand portion over stomach. Grab RIGHT hand portion, and cross over from right to left.

6. At this point, if you have a sporran that goes on while belt is unbuckled, put it on. Likewise dirk or any other gadgets. FOLD the excess from the right to left material down, and tuck under belt.

7. Stand up, and adjust bunting piece on left to hang correctly, and square up apron. The apron break should be on the left side of your left leg.

8. The remaining material goes over your shoulder-left or right, your choice. Some folks tie it off, tuck it under a belt, or pin it here and there. In cold weather, I pin, then wrap as I get chilly-makes a decent cloak component.

You will have a doubled over pleated section at the back-you can adjust this to square at the bottom, or peak it by tugging on the bunting/apron.

Photos of myself wearing (8 yards by 54"w) it in such a fashion can be found in my albums. I can give you an idea of the shirt design as well, if you are interested-it's two combined patterns and untreated heavy weight linen.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m...albums/mark-e/

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m...n-kansas-2011/