If price were no object I would have a military weight (18-21 oz) kilt in Muted Red Ross (custom weave), eight yards, pleated to the sett. As to a kiltmaker, I would want someone who could hand sew a kilt of the quality of my father's tank made by that kilt maker at Peter Henderson Ltd. in around 1971/72. I am sure some kilt makers still make kilts of that quality. I would have conventional straps and buckles of the same quality.