I have purchased three eight-yard kilts, over the years, from John Higgins, and only once did he allow me to even think I had a choice in the pleating. Granted, the other two times, I would have chosen sett pleating, but I didn't have any choice in the matter. And I could be completely wrong about how the kilt should be pleated... and John did explain that he only wants to make a kilt that will perform properly (i.e. hang and swing to the best effect).

While the kiltmakers are on-site, Articificer is right: you need to be dealing directly with the kiltmaker. Period. Lesson learned.

All-in-all, I am not dissatisfied enough to even suggest I'd want a refund. The kilt fits, so I'll wear it. It is a lovely tartan, the kilt was made for a specific purpose (acting as an ambassador for my kiltwalk and as long-distance walking gear), and there's nothing fundamentally wrong with it structurally.

I simply want to give an account of my buying experience for others. Take it for what it's worth, your mileage may vary. Still working on pics.

JDB