Which tweed for my jacket?

[Nathan]

Some brown tweeds look fantastic. Others look dated and very 1970s. In my opinion, the pinkish brown herring bone falls into the latter category while the other has a timeless appeal.

I own two tweed jackets with lots of brown, but I'm just not as big a fan of sample one as I am of sample two.

Obviously, you can't go wrong and you'll have admirers either way. Since you can't please everyone, choose the one that YOU like best!

[Tobus]

Some brown tweeds look fantastic. Others look dated and very 1970s. In my opinion, the pinkish brown herring bone falls into the latter category while the other has a timeless appeal.

Nathan, you are perfectly entitled to your own opinion, but I'm having trouble understanding how you find that particular tweed to be "dated" and reminiscent of the 1970s (and thus undesirable) when, at the same time, you say you like that small check pattern tweed (third image in your previous post where you commented on the images from Kyle). Of the two, I would think that the latter is the one that has more of a '70s vibe. Out of curiosity, what is it about that first tweed that gives it a '70s look in your opinion? Maybe my monitor is different than yours, but it doesn't look pinkish at all to me. What I often do when looking at tweeds is to blur my eyes and pretend I'm seeing it from a distance where the pattern blends together a bit more. And when I do that to the first tweed in this thread, I see an overall two-tone brown, with one being more yellowish and the other more of a traditional tan or light brown. I'm not getting a pink effect, though.

Personally, even though I cringe when I look at my own wardrobe from the 1970s, I do kind of like the vintage kilt jackets from that era. There were a lot of sartorial decisions in that decade which are regretful in retrospect, but one that I think is timeless is the use of earthy colours without the need to tone them down or over-use contrasting colours. And of course I'm a fan of bold patterned jackets in general, which were all the rage back then. This is why I'm a bit confused as to how a very simple and understated brown tweed looks dated but a bold pattern doesn't.

[creagdhubh]

Here's a good one from the 1970s:

Ian Campbell, 12th and 5th Duke of Argyll, during the march from Oban to Mossfield Park for the Argyllshire Gathering and Highland Games.

[Nathan]

Nathan, you are perfectly entitled to your own opinion, but I'm having trouble understanding how you find that particular tweed to be "dated" and reminiscent of the 1970s (and thus undesirable) when, at the same time, you say you like that small check pattern tweed (third image in your previous post where you commented on the images from Kyle). Of the two, I would think that the latter is the one that has more of a '70s vibe. Out of curiosity, what is it about that first tweed that gives it a '70s look in your opinion? Maybe my monitor is different than yours, but it doesn't look pinkish at all to me. What I often do when looking at tweeds is to blur my eyes and pretend I'm seeing it from a distance where the pattern blends together a bit more. And when I do that to the first tweed in this thread, I see an overall two-tone brown, with one being more yellowish and the other more of a traditional tan or light brown. I'm not getting a pink effect, though.

Personally, even though I cringe when I look at my own wardrobe from the 1970s, I do kind of like the vintage kilt jackets from that era. There were a lot of sartorial decisions in that decade which are regretful in retrospect, but one that I think is timeless is the use of earthy colours without the need to tone them down or over-use contrasting colours. And of course I'm a fan of bold patterned jackets in general, which were all the rage back then. This is why I'm a bit confused as to how a very simple and understated brown tweed looks dated but a bold pattern doesn't.

Granted, it doesn't look pinkish on this monitor but then, the second one looks more greenish with a brown window pane than greyish on this monitor too.

I think checks and plaids are enjoying a renaissance but the two tone brown herringbone tweed didn't make the comeback in the same way as some other patterns like houndstooth and glen check. All the jackets I find in the thrift store cut from this cloth don't have very contemporary styling.

I'm just not a fan of that particular brown herringbone tweed. On the other hand, I would have a jacket made in the second tweed in a heartbeat. The colour scheme of the second sample compliments the tartan much the way a lovat green tweed would but is visually interesting and less generic.

At the end of the day, it comes down to aesthetics. There's no right or wrong when it comes to taste - just preferences.

[Tobus]

I think checks and plaids are enjoying a renaissance but the two tone brown herringbone tweed didn't make the comeback in the same way as some other patterns like houndstooth and glen check. All the jackets I find in the thrift store cut from this cloth don't have very contemporary styling.

You say this as if it's a bad thing!

I'm not a fan of contemporary styling. I do agree that there's no right or wrong here; it's just preferences. But on that subject, one other thing that struck me was your 7th photo that you commented on, which you said didn't appeal to you because of the colour of the two jackets. And while I do agree with you about those jackets not being particularly appealing, my reason is because they are very modern to my eye. The cuff detail (or lack thereof), the button choice, pocket flap shape, and the overall streamlined/simple presentation of these jackets just doesn't do anything for me, regardless of the colour. Granted, the photo was taken from a horribly unattractive angle, which doesn't help. But I rather tend to think those jackets, in those tweed colours, would look smashing if they were built with the kind of detail seen in more traditional Argyll jackets (i.e. horn buttons, gauntlet cuffs, shaped pocket flaps, epaulets, and a more tailored fit instead of a boxy/baggy cut).

[Nathan]

Crail style jackets (without epaulettes or gauntlet or Braemar cuffs) are very traditional and appear in the Highlanders of Scotland. There are photos of these less adorned jackets from every era of kilt wearing.

I particularly like this one worn by the Duke of Rothsay, which has been featured on xmarks before.



Regarding the aforementioned "russet?" coloured jackets, perhaps it's the narrow shoulders that give them a dated look.

I'm just not fussy on the colour.

[creagdhubh]

You say this as if it's a bad thing!

I'm not a fan of contemporary styling. I do agree that there's no right or wrong here; it's just preferences. But on that subject, one other thing that struck me was your 7th photo that you commented on, which you said didn't appeal to you because of the colour of the two jackets. And while I do agree with you about those jackets not being particularly appealing, my reason is because they are very modern to my eye. The cuff detail (or lack thereof), the button choice, pocket flap shape, and the overall streamlined/simple presentation of these jackets just doesn't do anything for me, regardless of the colour. Granted, the photo was taken from a horribly unattractive angle, which doesn't help. But I rather tend to think those jackets, in those tweed colours, would look smashing if they were built with the kind of detail seen in more traditional Argyll jackets (i.e. horn buttons, gauntlet cuffs, shaped pocket flaps, epaulets, and a more tailored fit instead of a boxy/baggy cut).

I agree, Tobus. I was once a staunch wearer of tweed kilt jackets with plain (so-called, "Crail") cuffs, plan pocket flaps, and no epaulettes, but I'm not really that keen on that particular style any longer. Don't get me wrong, if done in a lovely tweed and tailored appropriately, that type of tweed kilt jacket is quite smart (think, HRH the Duke of Rothesay), just not for me. I wore this style of jacket, complete with a matching waistcoat, from Kinloch Anderson for quite some time. I think that I simply became bored with its plain design. Yes, yes, I am fully aware that sometimes less is more, but arguably in Highland tradition, sometimes more, well, is just more! The long-standing, wee details of a gauntlet (or the so-called, "Braemar") style cuff, scalloped pocket flaps with staghorn buttons, braided or flat-cloth epaulettes, etc, are all very appealing to me.

[McMurdo]

I agree, Tobus. I was once a staunch wearer of tweed kilt jackets with plain (so-called, "Crail") cuffs, plan pocket flaps, and no epaulets, but I'm not really that keen on that particylar style any longer. Don't get me wrong, if done in a lovely tweed and tailored appropriately, that type of tweed kilt jacket is quite smart (think, HRH the Duke of Rothesay), just not for me. I wore this style of jacket, complete with a matching waistcoat, from Kinloch Anderson for quite some time. I think that I simply became bored with its plain design. Yes, yes, I am fully aware that sometimes less is more, but arguably in Highland tradition, sometimes more, well, is just more! The long-standing, wee details of a gauntlet (or the so-called, "Braemar") style cuff, scalloped pocket flaps with staghorn buttons, braided or flat-cloth epaulets, etc, are all very appealing to me.

Kyle I could not agree more, all of my jackets have some cuff detail, be it gauntlet cuffs or Braemar cuffs, epaulets, scalloped pockets and horn buttons, for some reason they just look right to me.

[Calgacus]

I have seen a few 'plain' jackets that I like, but only a few. Analysing it, I find that there are basically two things I like about the ones that I have thought nice.

1. The cut. The ones I have liked have been very nicely cut, with a noticeable waist to them.

2. The tweed. The ones I have liked have all been made from what looks to be high quality cloth in attractive colours.

Without both of those things, it's never going to be a nice jacket in my view. What I really like is the same great cut and cloth but with gauntlet cuffs and everything else!