Question regarding making a Kilt when the Waist is larger than Hips

[Lady Grey]

Thank you so much for this information.
I'm dealing with this exact problem at the moment. It will be a plain coloured wool or drill kilt (thankfully no plaid to worry about) I haven't cut anything at the moment. I had used the search function and learnt about "gut cut" and other terms but I wasn't happy with that solution as it would look awful on the gentleman. I'm waiting to get hold of him for a new set of measurements and I shall use this method. (Hopefully I can convince him to wear it at his waist not at his jeans waist)

Extra question... Is this method suitable for a more casual a box pleat kilt as well?

[Barb T]

Is this method suitable for a more casual a box pleat kilt as well?

Doesn't matter what kind of a trad kilt you're making - box, Kingussie, Reverse Kingussie, knife - the fit is still the same. The only thing different is the kind of pleats. All four styles still have a rise, an apron, and pleats, and there's a fell in the pleats. So, yes, both the method I described above and the one that Steve describes are applicable.

[The Wizard of BC]

What Barb says is true - for traditional style kilts.

But - if you run across a customer who wishes to wear their kilt at anywhere but full rise you may run into a bit of a problem.

The Full Rise we associate with a traditional style kilt is really high in comparison with anything else a man today has ever worn. It is up at kidney level. The top straps cinch in right under the ribs and the Rise portion of the kilt rides up on the ribs. In the back the top of the kilt covers the short ribs. In the front it is about 3 or 4 finger widths below the breastbone.

I spent quite a bit of time looking at anatomy and guys shapes when I first began my kiltmaking because I started out making solid colored kilts worn lower than full rise.


You can see in this photo that the waistband of a pair of trousers fit lower in the front than in the rear. (And this pair of trousers is made to be worn higher than blue jeans.)




What I noticed is that guys who have a traditional kilt but wear it lower have a problem. What I call "Slope". Not only does shirt show between the top of the kilt and the bottom of a Prince Charlie Coatee and the hem is below the knee cap, but there will also be a large pucker in the front aprons.

So I chose to put Slope in my kilts to account for this. Now, Slope is different that the so called "Beer Gut Cut" introduced by the Utilikilt Co. Utilikilts would just cut away a large arc in the front of the kilt.

Slope may be cut lower in the front but is usually also cut higher in the back. As an example - I don't have much of a belly but I like to wear my kilts at "Mid Rise". Or with the waistband on top of my hips. My personal kilts are made 3/4" higher in the back and 3/4" lower in the front for a total difference of 1 1/2".

Here is an extreme example of a Tartan kilt with Slope. The hem is horizontal and all the pleats hang vertically. (OK the apron edge kicks out but that is due to a wrinkle when we hung it in the closet. It came right out with a shot of steam.)

This kilt is being worn at mid rise. When we first measured the guy we accounted for his stomach but we backed up the measurements with the split measuring system I describe above.




Just a note of clarification - The Wallace Tartan kilt above is not a Traditional style kilt. This idea of fitting a garment to the body shape and desires of the customer was the whole idea why I invented the Contemporary style of kilt.

The above kilt is designed to be worn lower than Full Rise.
It is machine sewn.
It has a waistband similar to that found on trousers.
It is made from a Polyester/Rayon blend fabric.
And it has pockets.

All of the above could have been different such as Full Rise, Hand-Stitched, 16oz wool, and still have been a Contemporary style kilt.

[Lady Grey]

Thank you Barb & Steve
I shall have to kidnap the 6'4" man mountain and measure with both tape and trusty iPad pictures beside me using your information.
Wrapping tape on him might be a possibility as well!!