Pleat maintenance

[Father Bill]

Just to be clear; what is the difference between ironing and pressing? The damp cloth?
Thanks.

The damp cloth for sure, AND ESPECIALLY, don't run the iron back and forth. Just squeeze it down in succession along the pleat.

[Steve Ashton]

Ironing and pressing are two different techniques. Both use a heated plate to soften fibers which releases wrinkles from fabric and to set creases.

But where they differ is the fabric they are used on.

Dimensionally stable fabrics like cotton can have the plate moved over the surface and in some cases the friction between the plate and the fabric can pull wrinkles from the heated fibers. (Cotton actually gets better and stronger each time you iron it.)

Pressing is used when the friction over softened fibers could distort the shape of the fabric.

On wool fabrics we use steam to heat the fibers and not the hot sole plate of the iron. In fact you can use steam without putting the sole plate in direct contct with the fibers at all. You can shoot steam through the fabric and press with a wood block. The block can act to suck the heat back out of the fabric setting the crease.

A standard household iron uses a very hot sole plate to create the steam. Industrial irons create the steam in a seprate tank. The sole plate of the iron can be cooler so that the fibers are not heated too much, scorching the fibers causing the sheen.

(if you see the sheen, this is actually damage to the surface of the fabric and in some cases is permanent and weakens the fabic shortening its life.)

So, on delicate wool, we do not move the iron over the fabric. We use steam to soften the fibers and then press.

A pressing cloth does not actually protect the surface as much as create the steam. We dampen the pressing cloth and the heat of the sole plate turns that water to steam.

The thing to remember is that wool must get hot to soften the fibers but the temerature needed to set a crease is also the same temperature where the softened fibers are become very delicate and can distort very easily.

The temperature where wool softens happens to be about the same as live steam. But where a household iron can damage wool is due to the sole plate needing to be much higher to create the steam.

The cost of home, tank style irons, (sometimes called pressing systems) has really come down in the last 20 years. Today you can get one for about the same price as a high end regular iron. I would probably not get one just to press one kilt but would really suggest that you investigate one the next time you need to replace an iron.

[Knoxy10]

Ironing and pressing are two different techniques. Both use a heated plate to soften fibers which releases wrinkles from fabric and to set creases.

But where they differ is the fabric they are used on.

Dimensionally stable fabrics like cotton can have the plate moved over the surface and in some cases the friction between the plate and the fabric can pull wrinkles from the heated fibers. (Cotton actually gets better and stronger each time you iron it.)

Pressing is used when the friction over softened fibers could distort the shape of the fabric.

On wool fabrics we use steam to heat the fibers and not the hot sole plate of the iron. In fact you can use steam without putting the sole plate in direct contct with the fibers at all. You can shoot steam through the fabric and press with a wood block. The block can act to suck the heat back out of the fabric setting the crease.

A standard household iron uses a very hot sole plate to create the steam. Industrial irons create the steam in a seprate tank. The sole plate of the iron can be cooler so that the fibers are not heated too much, scorching the fibers causing the sheen.

(if you see the sheen, this is actually damage to the surface of the fabric and in some cases is permanent and weakens the fabic shortening its life.)

So, on delicate wool, we do not move the iron over the fabric. We use steam to soften the fibers and then press.

A pressing cloth does not actually protect the surface as much as create the steam. We dampen the pressing cloth and the heat of the sole plate turns that water to steam.

The thing to remember is that wool must get hot to soften the fibers but the temerature needed to set a crease is also the same temperature where the softened fibers are become very delicate and can distort very easily.

The temperature where wool softens happens to be about the same as live steam. But where a household iron can damage wool is due to the sole plate needing to be much higher to create the steam.

The cost of home, tank style irons, (sometimes called pressing systems) has really come down in the last 20 years. Today you can get one for about the same price as a high end regular iron. I would probably not get one just to press one kilt but would really suggest that you investigate one the next time you need to replace an iron.

I will definitely look into a tank style iron to fix my kilt. Thanks so much!!

[The Wizard of BC]

When caring for items made from acrylic fibers - Please, please remember that these are a special and unique types of fabrics.

You do not press acrylic. You iron with a very light pressure. You keep the iron moving at all times.

You use the very lowest setting on your iron. No more than 275 F.

You do not use steam.

Caution is a must as the result of too high a temp or keeping the hot sole plate in one place too long will be a molten blob of plastic.

[Baeau]

When caring for items made from acrylic fibers - Please, please remember that these are a special and unique types of fabrics.

You do not press acrylic. You iron with a very light pressure. You keep the iron moving at all times.

You use the very lowest setting on your iron. No more than 275 F.

You do not use steam.

Caution is a must as the result of too high a temp or keeping the hot sole plate in one place too long will be a molten blob of plastic.

Steve.........another question regarding the acrylic fibre care information. My kilt is made from a 55/45 blend of polyester & wool, from one of the Forum's partners. Should it ever need touch up, follow your instructions? Or, is there any suggested / required addition(s) to them? TA!

[The Wizard of BC]

The rule of thumb (BTW does anyone remember their history classes and remember where that phrase comes from?) when ironing or pressing is -

To use the temperature setting that is the lowest. So in the case of a Polyester and Wool blend use the Polyester setting on your iron. (about 300 °F or 148°C) or about the same as you would for Wool.

The Wool in the blend will do best with steam but the steam will have little effect on the Polyester.

I would press a poly/wool bend and not iron. I would use a dampened pressing cloth. And I would use lots of steam.

[The Wizard of BC]

About the question in my above post.

Rule of Thumb - At one time it was an English law that allowed a husband to beat his wife as long as the stick he used was no larger than his thumb.

[Baeau]

The rule of thumb (BTW does anyone remember their history classes and remember where that phrase comes from?) when ironing or pressing is -

To use the temperature setting that is the lowest. So in the case of a Polyester and Wool blend use the Polyester setting on your iron. (about 300 °F or 148°C) or about the same as you would for Wool.

The Wool in the blend will do best with steam but the steam will have little effect on the Polyester.

I would press a poly/wool bend and not iron. I would use a dampened pressing cloth. And I would use lots of steam.

Thank you, Sir! Information noted, & a copy stored with the kilt accessories.

Attempting to lighten up, a lousy day for "She....", I passed on the information regarding the Rule of Thumb. After 7.25 hours, she was attempting to take lunch (which lasted 8 minutes), & called me (tell you how bad her life is?). For fun, I explained the 'Rule', she rapidly replied with there was no restriction in law dictating what a wife may use on her husband. Followed with, do you want to learn where "Old Bat" came from? At the least, the eight minute break ended with laughter. Now, to go find the bloody thing & hide it, where she cant find it!

[Katia]

When caring for items made from acrylic fibers - Please, please remember that these are a special and unique types of fabrics.

You do not press acrylic. You iron with a very light pressure. You keep the iron moving at all times.

You use the very lowest setting on your iron. No more than 275 F.

You do not use steam.

Caution is a must as the result of too high a temp or keeping the hot sole plate in one place too long will be a molten blob of plastic.

Oh. No steam? Dry press cloth, then, for a non-steaming iron?

(In my case, it's a some-sort-of-synthetic-no-idea-what-type pleated skirt I'm going to be pressing, not my kilt, but everything else I've read said use a damp press cloth?)

[The Wizard of BC]

You are correct. The words in my post may be read in a misleading way. I am sorry.

I guess I should have worded it more like "Steam has less effect on synthetics than it does on wool so steam is used in a different way, or for a different reason, than it is used on wool."

Because wool fibers are softened by the steam we can use the steam as an additional tool.
But synthetics are softened by steam less than wool.

We still use a damp pressing cloth - but with wool, the damp pressing cloth serves three purposes. Protect the fabric from the hard metal sole plate - create steam as the primary, controlled, heat source - and soften the fibers.

On synthetics the damp pressing cloth is used to protect the fabric from the hard metal sole plate - and to protect the fabric from excess heat.