Pocket Watches with PC

[Panache]

I'm one of those who do not wear a timepiece of any sort with Black Tie.

It seems that those who do wear a pocket watch do not wear it to tell the time but to show off their watch chain and fob. I used to wear a watch chain but these days try to keep Black Tie as simple and elegant as possible so pare down the accessories as much as I can.

I agree with Steve.

At a formal event, unless you are an organizer, why do you need a timepiece? The presence of one sort of indicates there are other things you have to do instead of being in the moment of the formal event.

Cheers

Jamie

[BadenochWolf]

At a formal event, unless you are an organizer, why do you need a timepiece? The presence of one sort of indicates there are other things you have to do instead of being in the moment of the formal event.

Hear, hear!

[Troglodyte]

The trouble with evening waistcoats, is that they are cut lower on the breast and higher at the waist than their day-time cousins, and so there is limited space to hang a watch-chain with the desired degree of panache.

My pictures show some options with both a single- and double-breasted waistcoat, and with single- and double-strand chains.

They illustrate how a long single strand chain can be looped around one of the buttons for security while forming a pleasing drape that echoes that of the sporran chain, and draping from pocket to pocket without the loop.

Another option is the double-strand chain which is held in place by a T-bar passed through a suitable button-hole, and this allows for a decorative fob or medallion, but these really require more frontage than an evening waistcoat provides.

The shorter, single-strand chain of graduated links, is probably the simplest and best option as the reduced amount of chain is easier to accommodate and it is more discrete.

There was a time when watch-chains were readily available specifically for evening use, and these tended to be much finer and with ornate links - and on a white waistcoat with white tie and tails, these can look superb. But with Highland dress, which tends to be bolder and sturdier than other kinds, a watch-chain that is in balance with the rest of the outfit and that tones with the buttons is probably the best choice.

DSCF0697a.jpgDSCF0698a.jpgDSCF0699a.jpgDSCF0700a.jpgDSCF0703a.jpg

[piperalpha]

The trouble with evening waistcoats, is that they are cut lower on the breast and higher at the waist than their day-time cousins, and so there is limited space to hang a watch-chain with the desired degree of panache.

My pictures show some options with both a single- and double-breasted waistcoat, and with single- and double-strand chains.

They illustrate how a long single strand chain can be looped around one of the buttons for security while forming a pleasing drape that echoes that of the sporran chain, and draping from pocket to pocket without the loop.

Another option is the double-strand chain which is held in place by a T-bar passed through a suitable button-hole, and this allows for a decorative fob or medallion, but these really require more frontage than an evening waistcoat provides.

The shorter, single-strand chain of graduated links, is probably the simplest and best option as the reduced amount of chain is easier to accommodate and it is more discrete.

There was a time when watch-chains were readily available specifically for evening use, and these tended to be much finer and with ornate links - and on a white waistcoat with white tie and tails, these can look superb. But with Highland dress, which tends to be bolder and sturdier than other kinds, a watch-chain that is in balance with the rest of the outfit and that tones with the buttons is probably the best choice.

What kind of Jacket is with the double breasted Tartan waistcoat. I’m quite taken with the pairing

[Troglodyte]

What kind of Jacket is with the double breasted Tartan waistcoat. I’m quite taken with the pairing

It's a rather nice bespoke-made regulation doublet c1930s-40s, with the buttons leaning out from the centre.

The second is another c1960s regulation doublet, but with the bottons in line with the front edges, which gives the impression the line of the buttons leans in to the centre. It has borrowed the waistcoat from the Prince Charlie to have its picture taken. This one also has an unusual breat welted pocket (like an English evening tail-coat) and has additional ticket-pockets hidden under the 'tashes'.

Neither regulation doublet has its own matchng waistcoat, as white, coloured or tartan, or none was the usual way with them.

Bottom picture is Prince Charlie and waistcoat as normal. The PC has hidden pockets in the 'tails' at the back (like the above-mentioned tail-coats had) which was where opera-programmes and dance-cards used to get carried to keep the hands free.

[piperalpha]

It's a rather nice bespoke-made regulation doublet c1930s-40s, with the buttons leaning out from the centre.

The second is another c1960s regulation doublet, but with the bottons in line with the front edges, which gives the impression the line of the buttons leans in to the centre. It has borrowed the waistcoat from the Prince Charlie to have its picture taken. This one also has an unusual breat welted pocket (like an English evening tail-coat) and has additional ticket-pockets hidden under the 'tashes'.

Neither regulation doublet has its own matchng waistcoat, as white, coloured or tartan, or none was the usual way with them.

Bottom picture is Prince Charlie and waistcoat as normal. The PC has hidden pockets in the 'tails' at the back (like the above-mentioned tail-coats had) which was where opera-programmes and dance-cards used to get carried to keep the hands free.

Would you have a photo of the waist coat? I’m going to have a few yards of Tartan leftover from my new kilt.

[Troglodyte]

Would you have a photo of the waist coat? I’m going to have a few yards of Tartan leftover from my new kilt.

Using the excess material from your kilt is the best way to get a matching waistcoat. Nothing removes the difficulties of matching tones, shades, colours, cloth-weight, etc, in quite the same way.

You also have additional options with a matching bespoke-made waistcoat. Length in body, number of buttons, pockets, style of lapels and the like are all open to you own personal choice - even having the back made in the same material, which can be a good option if warmth is a consideration, or if you in the habit of taking off your jacket and you don't want to appear 'undressed'.

Like looking at you watch, there are rules about removing your jacket in the presence of ladies - strictly speaking, a waistcoat is underwear, and taking off your jacket is akin to taking off your shoes in company.

Matching the sett as it gets displayed on the front aprons of the kilt is one option that appeals to many, so that the tartan is used vertically in the waistcoat, and follows on directly from the kilt. But this removes the contrast between the two garments, which is why so many men prefer a bias-cut on the diagonal. Some setts can be arranged to form quite decorative patterns in this way. Accurate pattern-matching is crucial, as the slightest error becomes strikingly obvious.

You will need to allow half a yard of double-width material for a waistcoat, more if you want the back in self-material, too, and sufficient for lapels, pocket welts, flaps, etc.

My recommendation would be to get a selection of pictures showing style elements you fancy, and take them to your tailor for his advice and guidance. And remember to wear your kilt when being measured, as you want to avoid it being too long and coming below the bottom of the jacket. Many tailors will try to use their own 'standard' pattern (which is designed to go with trousers) so be prepared to be strict and stand your ground..!

Alternatively, you can opt for something like this - https://www.houseofbruar.com/m-db-pl...ed-red-38-red/ which is the same flat-bottom style of mine in the pictures, and not a bad price, either. Bespoke would be about three times the amount in my experience.