A really tough question for the kilt makers

[The Wizard of BC]

Dread,

The pics are small but from what I can see there seems to be a couple of issues.

1) The hip of the kilt seems to be too small.
2) The fell is in the wrong place. On you I think the fell needs to be much lower.
3) You seem to be one of those guys that should try wearing your kilts up at mid or full traditional rise. That way the aprons would hang vertically from your front.
4) If you really want to wear your kilt at low rise you should have about 3 -3 1/3" slope built into the waist. Can you see how the stripe at the hip rides up in the rear? You can also see it at the hem. Yours is significantly higher in the rear where it should be completly horizontal.

Rocky is a very good kiltmaker. It is obvious from the picture that the kilt is made correctly, --for someone of differant proportions --- .

Let's give Rocky a chance to chime in here 'cause that is one of his. But I really think having your kiltmaker take your measurements in person would make all the differance in the world.

[Dreadbelly]

Click the pics to make them larger.

This was my first kilt, a casual. I do wear it higher. It slides down. I pull it up, it slides down. For the photo, I wore it right where it tends to slide down to. It is a 48/48.

I do wear my stillwaters in the traditional place, up near my ribs. And I still get the pleat problems.

I have no kilt maker to take my measurements in person.

I am learning something here, so this is a good thing.

[RockyR]

Hey Dread...

The problem is that the 2 measurements we need are the waist and the hips (hips are USUALLY the largest part below the waist). In your case, the hips are not the widest part... where your thighs bow and are the widest is the measurement we need for the kilt to hang properly. As Steve mentioned above, we'd need you to take the measurement at the widest point around your thighs and that would be the hip measurement we'd make the kilt to. Also, we'd probably try to make the pleats a little deeper... that might help as well.

1) The hip of the kilt seems to be too small.

Addressed above

2) The fell is in the wrong place. On you I think the fell needs to be much lower.

Incorrect. The fell IS the correct length. The "floating front apron" is not sewn down more than 3 inches on ANY of our casuals for a reason... there is no attachment at the hip on the right side of the apron, so sewing the apron down to the "regular fell" length of the rest of the kilt would cause the apron to be pulled to the left when standing or sitting.

3) You seem to be one of those guys that should try wearing your kilts up at mid or full traditional rise. That way the aprons would hang vertically from your front.

I'd agree with that statement, but we'd still need the "widest measurement" around his thighs.

4) If you really want to wear your kilt at low rise you should have about 3 -3 1/3" slope built into the waist. Can you see how the stripe at the hip rides up in the rear? You can also see it at the hem. Yours is significantly higher in the rear where it should be completly horizontal.

The problem is that tartan kilts don't have a "beer gut cut". The lines of the tartan would make any attempt at a beer gut cut look "amateur-ish" and even if pulled off successfully, would draw even MORE attention to the wearer's belly. The only way to address that issue is to wear a kilt at the traditional waist (1 - 2 inches above naval)

Rocky is a very good kiltmaker. It is obvious from the picture that the kilt is made correctly, --for someone of differant proportions --- .

Let's give Rocky a chance to chime in here 'cause that is one of his. But I really think having your kiltmaker take your measurements in person would make all the differance in the world.

I agree that the kilt does not fit that well. Dread... next time you order a kilt (from any place... not just from us), a quick conversation with the maker could probably clear this up... The way that most men are measured for kilts is not the way you will need to measure. If you ever find yourself in this neck 'o the woods, stop by and we'd GLALDY measure you up and write them down for you for next time you want to order a kilt from anyone!

I hope these answers clear some things up and don't sound too "defensive".

[Dreadbelly]

Rocky, could it be done with a casual do you think? Because I do love wearing them for the summer. I only ask because a casual is only about 4 yards, and you mention deeper pleats and what not and the whole hip size increase.

If not, a simi traditional I guess would be the way to go for all future PV kilt purchases.

Many thanks to everybody that has, and will, chime in on this issue. I have learned something valuable, as I am sure everybody else has... Measuring the 'hip' measurement at the point where somebody's bowlegged thighs cow out will make for a much better kilt fit... Probably also applies to some of my fellow gentleman of substance who still may have a narrowish waist in comparasion to the rest of their frame.

Oh, and Rocky, this was by no means a slight on your skills, or the casual... It is actually starting to wear out in a few places from so much wear and use... And words do not express the feelings of love I have for it, especially on those somewhat warm Southern days when it is 110 degrees outside, 125 or more with the heat index and the sunlight reflecting off of all those mirrored buildings.

I've learned a lot from the kilt makers here, like how to measure your hips sitting down (which brings mine from 48 to 50 inches) and all kinds of neat tricks to have a better fitting kilt. (We should make a FAQ) And now there is a new trick to learn which I am sure will help folks other than my self.

Thanks again.

[RockyR]

No problem Dread...

A Semi Trad would probably fit a little better (with the new measurements), but it can be done with the Casual if that's the "look" you're after. Do me 1 favor though... CALL before you order to talk it thru.

[Dreadbelly]

Pictures clicky pop to a much larger size.

The problem isn't quite as noticeable on my Stillwater Heavyweight. Still noticeable to me, but not as bad... On my Irish National though, it can actually be WORSE than the USAK casual. More pleats flop over because of more fabric, and the aprons on both sides curl and rumple over.

Anyhoo, on the heavyweight, you can sort of see on both sides how the pleat next to the apron sort of poofs out, causing everything to hang funny. And yes, my pleats in the back are a real mess right now. Curled over and what not. I got drenched the other day, and I do mean DRENCHED and then rode home on the bus in a wet kilt.

You can see how high I wear my kilts... Over my navel. My Stillwaters used to be just about the right length at 24 inches when I was 5 foot 5. I have since lost an inch in hight from RA eating up my spine and I measure in at 5 foot 4. As such, my stillwaters now hang just below my kneecaps. I need a 22 or a 23 inch kilt.

All problems aside, kilts fit better and are a great deal more comfortable than any pair of paints I ever bought. Finding the right trooser sizes for me was a special kind of hell, one I never intend on going through ever again.

And a question. If my hip size is 50, and my waist size is 44 to 46, and if I get a kilt fitted to 56 inch hips, wont that cause a bit of a problem? I mean, wont the area around my actual hips look a little funny from all the extra fabric and space? How does that work? Just more taper than usual? Increase the drop where the taper is located?

Sorry for being nosy... I appreciate how complicated kilts can be to make. I just want to know more about the process.