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  1. #1
    Join Date
    21st November 06
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    There are a few tools that you'll want to get to do a neat job.
    Using a groover, you emboss a groove 1/4" in from the edge, then you run a
    ponce wheel along the groove, marking where the stitches will go. Using a block of end-grain softwood (like a cut-off from a 4X4), you punch holes where the wheel marked them with an awl, taking care to get them vertical; not at an angle.
    Finally, using a needle and sailmaker's palm, start a few holes down from the end of a seam, stitch up, then backstitch back down and continue along the seam. Some people saddle-stitch with two needles (on each end of the thread), crossing each other at every hole; I just use one, and when I get to the end of a seam I back-stitch back to the beginning. Try to keep the tension on the stitches as uniform as humanly possible.

  2. #2
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    21st February 04
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    I've used artificial sinew in many projects, and it is an excellent choice for a strong seam. I've used it on sheaths for knives and medieval shoes. On the shoes, one is sewn with heavy duty nylon thread, the other with artificial sinew. Why? Because the sinew sewn one was resewn after the nylon blew out, and the other shoe which is still stitched with nylon is starting to come apart, while the newly sewn one is as sturdy as it was the day I sewed it.

    I don't use a groover or a ponce wheel, but use what tools you feel you need and that suit what you're doing. I use an awl, dividers, two glovers needles, and a thimble for most projects.
    An uair a théid an gobhainn air bhathal 'se is feàrr a bhi réidh ris.
    (When the smith gets wildly excited, 'tis best to agree with him.)

    Kiltio Ergo Sum.
    I Kilt, therefore I am. -McClef

  3. #3
    Join Date
    1st March 07
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiobBear View Post
    There are a few tools that you'll want to get to do a neat job.
    Using a groover, you emboss a groove 1/4" in from the edge, then you run a
    ponce wheel along the groove, marking where the stitches will go. Using a block of end-grain softwood (like a cut-off from a 4X4), you punch holes where the wheel marked them with an awl, taking care to get them vertical; not at an angle.
    Finally, using a needle and sailmaker's palm, start a few holes down from the end of a seam, stitch up, then backstitch back down and continue along the seam. Some people saddle-stitch with two needles (on each end of the thread), crossing each other at every hole; I just use one, and when I get to the end of a seam I back-stitch back to the beginning. Try to keep the tension on the stitches as uniform as humanly possible.
    PiobBear, I am about to make my first sporran, and like the way you suggest it should be done. I have seen a Tandy starter kit recommended which has everything that you suggest except that it has an overstitch wheel instead of a ponce wheel. Do you know if they are the same thing?
    Am I right to assume that a sailmaker`s palm is something to push the needle through with?

    Peter

  4. #4
    AL-58 is offline Oops, it seems this member needs to update their email address
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter C. View Post
    Am I right to assume that a sailmaker`s palm is something to push the needle through with?

    Peter
    That's exactly what it is. Saves your hands from a lot of discomfort when hand sewing heavy materials. I used to use one 8 hours a day for a week or two straight many years ago, reinforcing Land Rover canvas roofs for the Australian Army, I went home green from head to toe every day from the crap that came off the canvas.

    Al

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