Kilt Material

[MacWage]

OK, so the opinion is to stay away from anything by natural wool. I lilke it, the pressing will smooth out "bubbling" as Barb says...

Not necessarily, just be aware that each material has its own advantage and disadvantage.

Wool is NOT machine washable. So it you tend to get dirty, wool isn't the best. It needs to be carefully hand washed or drycleaned.

I tend to stay fairly clean, so wool works for me. I also LOVE "4 yard" box pleats and will tell anyone. Many others disagree. I like my box pleat facings WIDE too-> 3-4 inches. To each his own.
Wool and box pleats work together GREAT.

[ChattanCat]

Wool is NOT machine washable. So it you tend to get dirty, wool isn't the best. It needs to be carefully hand washed or drycleaned.

I tend to stay fairly clean, so wool works for me. I also LOVE "4 yard" box pleats and will tell anyone. Many others disagree. I like my box pleat facings WIDE too-> 3-4 inches. To each his own.
Wool and box pleats work together GREAT.

Help me out, I don't know what a box pleat is. I understand it is pleat, reverse pleat, reveal, pleat, reverse pleat.

I also understand that the box pleat uses less material. Why?

[Dreadbelly]

Help me out, I don't know what a box pleat is. I understand it is pleat, reverse pleat, reveal, pleat, reverse pleat.

I also understand that the box pleat uses less material. Why?

Box pleats are about balance. About two yards in the front, and two in the rear.

Knife pleats tend to be off kilter (HAH!) 2 yards in the front maybe and six to seven yards in the rear. Depending on if it is pleated to the stripe or to the sett, pleat depth, and other factors. A five to seven inch pleat depth with a once inch reveal means you need a ton of fabric to create the intricate knife pleating of the kilt.

[MacWage]

Help me out, I don't know what a box pleat is. I understand it is pleat, reverse pleat, reveal, pleat, reverse pleat.

I also understand that the box pleat uses less material. Why?

From the best known box pleat maker's site:
On the yardage:
http://kilts.albanach.org/yardage.html
On the shape of the pleat:
http://kilts.albanach.org/details.html

My version:


Say, A tartan has a 9 inch set, not uncommon.
Knife pleat, to stripe:
1 inch reveal, 8 inches for each pleat for a 4 inch deep pleat.
for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 24 facings (1x24), or 24x9=216 inches
(roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)

A box pleat has 1/3 of a sett as a facing, 1/3 as the rear facing and 1/6 as each in pleat section (if that makes any sense).
So, that same 9 inch set makes a 3 inch facing.
for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 8 facings (3x8), or 9x8=72 inches
(roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)
(on me, I'd make a small apron

The difference is in the pleats.
In a box pleat, there would be 2 yards in back and 2 in front (counting aprons and reverse pleats).
In a knife pleat, there would be 6 yards in back and 2 in front.

A box pleat also swings a bit different and "feels" rather different.
I think it feels more balanced (front to back), and the facing pleats act as a bit of an "anchor" to the pleats in wind, while the knife spreads like an accordian.
Most box pleats are also made in 16 oz or heavier wool, a BEAR weight in a knife pleat. I havn't had much of a wind problem in my 16 oz box.

A knife has the swing, while a box is, to me, more comfortable to actually wear in daily activities. I am comparing it to a 16 oz 5 yard knife I made first, so I can't imagine sitting and driving in an 8 yarder.

[ChattanCat]

From the best known box pleat maker's site:
On the yardage:
http://kilts.albanach.org/yardage.html
On the shape of the pleat:
http://kilts.albanach.org/details.html

My version:


Say, A tartan has a 9 inch set, not uncommon.
Knife pleat, to stripe:
1 inch reveal, 8 inches for each pleat for a 4 inch deep pleat.
for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 24 facings (1x24), or 24x9=216 inches
(roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)

A box pleat has 1/3 of a sett as a facing, 1/3 as the rear facing and 1/6 as each in pleat section (if that makes any sense).
So, that same 9 inch set makes a 3 inch facing.
for a 24 inch pleated area, one needs 8 facings (3x8), or 9x8=72 inches
(roughly, as I am not taking a few factors into account, for simplicity)
(on me, I'd make a small apron

The difference is in the pleats.
In a box pleat, there would be 2 yards in back and 2 in front (counting aprons and reverse pleats).
In a knife pleat, there would be 6 yards in back and 2 in front.

A box pleat also swings a bit different and "feels" rather different.
I think it feels more balanced (front to back), and the facing pleats act as a bit of an "anchor" to the pleats in wind, while the knife spreads like an accordian.
Most box pleats are also made in 16 oz or heavier wool, a BEAR weight in a knife pleat. I havn't had much of a wind problem in my 16 oz box.

A knife has the swing, while a box is, to me, more comfortable to actually wear in daily activities. I am comparing it to a 16 oz 5 yard knife I made first, so I can't imagine sitting and driving in an 8 yarder.

Thanks MacWage, Lord of the box pleat!

[Dreadbelly]

Not necessarily, just be aware that each material has its own advantage and disadvantage.

Wool is NOT machine washable. So it you tend to get dirty, wool isn't the best. It needs to be carefully hand washed or drycleaned.

I tend to stay fairly clean, so wool works for me. I also LOVE "4 yard" box pleats and will tell anyone. Many others disagree. I like my box pleat facings WIDE too-> 3-4 inches. To each his own.
Wool and box pleats work together GREAT.

Your box pleats always look fantastic. Even after hours of driving on them. Quality work there.

Narrow box pleats muss up to easily I believe. Wider ones spread the distress over a larger area and are easier to smooth out.

There is always HEMP. Which may be nature's most perfect material.