Hey Gunny, Semper Fi. Say hi to o'side for me. I was born just east at the old Santa Margarita Hospital. Then did some time at San Onofre. Was an airdale though so did most of my time up around Santa Ana.
In the pictures you posted it does indeed seem like the kilts you have do not have any taper to the aprons.
For someone your size and shape I would have put in as much taper as I could have made the fabric take. Between 2.5 and 3 inches on each side. 5"-6" total.
I also would have worked the taper up to the bottom of the Fell as much as I could before dropping straight down.
In my experience it is apron taper that causes or corrects pleat "kick" more than any other thing.
The depth of the deep and reverse pleats is used to allow the aprons to fall between the legs when sitting and squatting.
To tell which your kilt is suffering from try this;
Sit down with your knees just wider than shoulder width and lightly drop your hand in your lap. If the apron falls down and can easily touch the chair seat you have sufficient depth to the under apron pleats. If this is ok proceed.
Next step; Take a walk down the street. A good marching step. Now look down at the hem of your apron. If you see the outer corner of the apron flip forward on the left when the right foot advances and flip forward on the right when the left foot advances you have an apron taper problem. If this is ok proceed.
Next; Stand at parade rest. If the outer corners of the aprons kick out and curl forward, your kilt is the wrong size in the hip, or the Fell is in the wrong location, (Too long or too short) or again the apron taper is insufficient.
I hope this helps you on your next kilt.
BTW, instead of Velcro at the waist have you considered asking for your kilt to be made without the straps & buckles and then adding a couple of trouser waistband hooks and eyes? They hold far better than year old Velcro and won't ruin the wool of your kilt.
Steve Ashton
www.freedomkilts.com
Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
I wear the kilt because: Swish + Swagger = Swoon.
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