What does this mean?

[Barb T]

There is nothing that looks better than a traditional closed selvedge. You can't see the selvedge, and you can't feel it. The fabric is absolutely perfect all the way to the edge.

A modern tuck-in selvedge shows. Plain and simple - the tartan looks different and feels different in the turned part (that's about 5/8" from the edge). The color isn't the same, and the texture isn't the same. And that's not including any "fuzz" that sometimes shows up where the threads are cut. If the tartan sett is carefully laid out, the color difference is minimized, but you still have twice as many weft threads in that 5/8" than elsewhere in the tartan, and it's thicker and stiffer. If the tartan sett isn't laid out carefully, however, the turned back threads can make it look like the colors have bled. Some of you remember that first run of 13 oz XMarks tartan.....

I am not a fan of a tuck-in selvedge. Not much you can do about it, though, as most mills have gone that route. If I remember correctly, however (and Matt can correct me if I'm wrong), House of Edgar just spent a lot of money on looms that do a traditional closed selvedge. And D.C. Dalgliesh does all of their custom weaves on a traditional loom as well, and they have far and away the nicest tartan on the market, in my estimation. It is a dream to make a kilt from. Ask Rex Tremende - his new kilt is a Dalgliesh custom weave, and it is spectacular fabric. Same with McMurdo's British Royal Naval Association tartan.

[ardchoille]

If I remember correctly, however (and Matt can correct me if I'm wrong), House of Edgar just spent a lot of money on looms that do a traditional closed selvedge. And D.C. Dalgliesh does all of their custom weaves on a traditional loom as well, and they have far and away the nicest tartan on the market, in my estimation. It is a dream to make a kilt from.

I believe you are correct.. I read this in a post he made not too long ago.

[Rex_Tremende]

It is a dream to make a kilt from. Ask Rex Tremende - his new kilt is a Dalgliesh custom weave, and it is spectacular fabric.

My kilt is a dream.

Here are some macro shots of the selvedge edge:




You can still see the tiny loom sprocket holes - I expect they'll eventually close themselves up - but there is no break in the twill. There's a wee bit of roughness where the colors change...



...but it is not apparent from when seen from a different angle. And here's just a gratuitous pile of pleats seen on edge:



Regards,
Rex.

[Huoliuhi]

thanks a lot , bump up up up!!