Number vs. size of pleats

[Barb T]

One other quick question I'll throw out: with the original shaping of the left side of the overapron, there was more width in the shaping from waist to hip than there was in the first pleat. When I get home tonight, I'll redo the math on the pleats and see how things recalculate with a 7/8" pleat at the hip. However, if the shaping in the left side of the overapron is still wider than one pleat, what is the accepted method for dealing with it?

Somehow stretch or tilt the overapron so that the entire distance to the fell stays on the first pleat?

I think I'm not entirely clear on what you're asking. But it's very common for the apron-edge taper to be much more than the taper in the first pleat. If that's what you're asking, then you just fold the first pleat the way it needs to be folded and stitch it to the diagonal curve of the apron edge. The apron edge, being a diagonal, will be a little longer than the first pleat, but a little stretching will do the trick, and it will be fine once the kilt is pressed.

You can see it easily in this kilt: