IDEAL v. BUDGET

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

The Highland Gentleman's Ideal Wardrobe:

1) KILT-- Two traditional, hand sewn kilts, both superfine 16-ounce weave, in either a clan or associated tartan. One pleated to either the sett or stripe for evening or dress wear, and the other in the same sett but "weathered" for Highland games and less dressy occasions. The second kilt could be box pleated as a matter of personal preference.

2) Shoes (day wear)-- low cut, well polished oxfords or bluchers, with or without brogue-ing. If attending an outdoor event, well polished black ghillie brogues with a soft sole (but not a "commando" sole, and definitely no nails in the heels or or soles) are appropriate.

3) Shoes (evening wear)-- shoes depend on the type of necktie being worn. Well polished black oxfords work best if one is wearing a four-in-hand tie. With black tie either oxfords or a patent leather evening shoe work well (but not the ex-military plastic looking shoes by Bates and others). Formal Highland evening shoes (with buckle and strap) are also appropriate. With white tie only formal Highland evening shoes should be worn.

4) Hose (day wear)-- Any Colour But White is the rule. ACBW includes cream, off-white, pale tan, etc. The hose (along with the flashes) should make a definite statement, and that statement should be, "I didn't rent my kilt outfit", which is what people will think if they see you in white socks. Mid-weight hose are the best option, and tops can be as fancy as you like. Tartan flashes are to be avoided.

5) Hose (evening wear)-- black tie or white tie: Three pair of hose are nice, one in tartan to match the kilt, one pair in an argyle pattern for a slightly less formal look, and one pair of diced hose. Deep red hose may also be worn with black tie. Hose may be either cuffed or castellated as either is appropriate. If wearing a four-in-hand tie, then a dark pair of day wear hose is the most appropriate choice.

6) Sporran (day wear)-- One of each of the following: a full mask muskrat, an all leather sporran, and a brass cantle sporran, any of which are perfectly acceptable for wear before 6PM. (Contrary to popular opinion your shoes and sporran don't have to match.)

7) Sporran (evening wear)-- With a four-in-hand tie either the muskrat or brass cantle sporran. With black tie wear either a silver mounted skin sporran (seal, leopard, bobcat, etc. but not rabbit fur or anything else "fuzzy") or a silver mounted horsehair sporran.

8) Jacket/waistcoat (day wear)-- Tweed jacket with matching waistcoat; dark gray wool, or wool blend, jacket with matching waistcoat; black Argyll jacket with matching waistcoat.

9) Jacket/waistcoat (evening wear)-- Regulation doublet in black barathea with two matching waistcoats, one black, one white. If you are an armiger then I'd suggest a third waistcoat in your livery colours as a bit of whimsy. Alternatively a doublet and waistcoat cut from tartan is also appropriate.

10) Advice? Spend the money for tailored clothing. Only buy sterling silver accessories-- sporran, kilt pin, sgian dubh, belt plate-- what seems expensive today will only be seen as cheap in a decade. Put wooden shoe trees in your shoes, and keep your shoes in cloth bags. Don't look to "red carpet" celebrities for fashion tips-- a white shirt and a conservative tie is always correct. Learn to tie your own bow tie, and never leave your house without shining your shoes.

The Highland Gentleman's Ideal Wardrobe (on a budget!)

1) Kilt-- spend the money and buy the best quality, hand sewn, traditional 16 ounce kilt in either your clan, or an affiliation, tartan. If your clan has more than one tartan, go with the one that is darkest in colour as it will work best for both day and evening wear.

2) Shoes (day wear)-- get a good pair of black dress oxfords, not "wingtips" or "brogues". Expect to pay $150 plus for your shoes, but if you take care of them (put in shoe trees, keep them in cloth shoe bags, and make sure they are always well polished) they will last for decades. Cheap shoes are a false economy.

3) Shoes (evening wear)-- these are the same day wear black dress oxfords. A little extra effort with the shoe polish and you are good to go.

4) Hose (day wear)-- ACBW; stick with darker colours for greater versatility.

5) Hose (evening wear)-- again, this depends on what tie you are wearing. If you are wearing an ordinary necktie then your darkest pair of hose are appropriate. If the event is black tie, then either your darkest pair of hose or deep red are appropriate. For white tie you're stuck-- diced, or Argyll, or tartan hose are required.

6) Sporran (day wear)-- If at all possible, invest in a full-mask muskrat sporran. If this is just too much of a stretch, then buy a fairly plain black leather sporran-- avoid the huge "Rob Roy" sporrans, and those made out of anything "furry".

7) Sporran (evening wear)-- here is where your full-mask muskrat sporran pays off. It is perfectly acceptable for evening wear, and in a pinch can even be worn with white tie.

8) Jacket/waistcoat (day wear)--If you can only afford one jacket, go with a black Argyll jacket with matching five-button waistcoat AND a second, three-button waistcoat like those worn with Prince Charlie coatees. If you can afford two jackets, go with a dark gray jacket with matching waistcoat and the black Argyll combination as already recommended.

9) Jacket/waistcoat (evening wear)-- The black Argyll jacket can be worn with, or without, the five button waistcoat after 6PM just like any other suit jacket. By substituting the three-button waistcoat, and putting on a black bow tie, it can be worn to any formal (black tie) function.

10) Advice? Save your money, and don't buy cheap. Be realistic about what you need-- most gentlemen only require formal attire (black tie) once a year. Starting out it is probably cheaper to rent for the first year or two while you save for what you really want, and need. What is the bare-bones minimum? Your kilt, dark hose, a dark gray day wear jacket and waistcoat, a quality sporran, and, if you don't already have them, a good pair of black leather dress oxfords.