formal jackets and the cookie cutter aversion

[MacLowlife]

Thanks for the warning about the velvet, Bugbear, I try not to be alone in a room with it and I keep a whip and a chair handy at all times.

OK, Here is what I (believe) I know about doublets:

1) Montrose= Double breasted, worn with a jabot and maybe belt, but no flaps ( Military collar )
2) Sherrifmuir= Buttons only at the top, flares out towards waist, worn with a waistcoat
3) Kenmore= Single breasted, worn with a jabot, has flaps ( and military collar )
4) Mystery doublet, probably BALMORAL , has flaps and lapels
http://www.highlandclans.co.uk/Balmo...t_Doublet.html

The trick about the Balmoral is that it seems to be wearable either with lapels or quite possibly with the collar turned up. Similarly, it can take a belt or can be worn open, in which case it greatly resembles the regulation doublet. Smarter men than I can probably post a handy doublet recognition chart.

(In which case, we would have to include #5, the Regulation and possibly ( hisssss) #6, the much rented PC[ )

Who will provide us with said chart? And who can offer illustrated suggestions on other velvet confections?

[Jock Scot]

Thanks for the warning about the velvet, Bugbear, I try not to be alone in a room with it and I keep a whip and a chair handy at all times.

OK, Here is what I (believe) I know about doublets:

1) Montrose= Double breasted, worn with a jabot and maybe belt, but no flaps ( Military collar )
2) Sherrifmuir= Buttons only at the top, flares out towards waist, worn with a waistcoat
3) Kenmore= Single breasted, worn with a jabot, has flaps ( and military collar )
4) Mystery doublet, probably BALMORAL , has flaps and lapels
http://www.highlandclans.co.uk/Balmo...t_Doublet.html

The trick about the Balmoral is that it seems to be wearable either with lapels or quite possibly with the collar turned up. Similarly, it can take a belt or can be worn open, in which case it greatly resembles the regulation doublet. Smarter men than I can probably post a handy doublet recognition chart.

(In which case, we would have to include #5, the Regulation and possibly ( hisssss) #6, the much rented PC[ )

Who will provide us with said chart? And who can offer illustrated suggestions on other velvet confections?

As much as I hate throwing a spanner into the works of your well oiled machine, be warned! Not all tailors in Scotland and perhaps the world for all I know, call their jackets by the same name and some call their jackets by a name that might say to you in your minds eye one thing and they will mean a completely different style that you also think you have in your minds eye. I dare not give you an example in case I confuse you even more!MAKE SURE YOU SEE A PICTURE.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

As much as I hate throwing a spanner into the works of your well oiled machine, be warned! Not all tailors in Scotland and perhaps the world for all I know, call their jackets by the same name and some call their jackets by a name that might say to you in your minds eye one thing and they will mean a completely different style that you also think you have in your minds eye. I dare not give you an example in case I confuse you even more!MAKE SURE YOU SEE A PICTURE.

At one time Mr. Geoffrey the Tailor called his double breasted Montrose a doublet, and the single breasted Kenmore, a singlet.

Imagine that, going to the ball in your kilt and singlet...

[Bugbear]

I refined that pleating to where it basically replaced the side vents on the sport jacket to kilt jacket conversion. That would be the jackets that have an Argyle bottom and cutaway.

So if I were to do another conversion, there would be no open side vents, and no need for the panel of fabric behind the vent. Also, the pleating takes in the waist to make the sport jacket fit more like a kilt jacket. I also put a bit of hair canvas in the flap that is formed by the pleats, parallel to the hem, so it keeps it's crisp shape.

All of that was practice for if I found a jacket that would be suitable for a semi-formal jacket. I never found a black, pin wale corduroy jacket, but there is a very nice tuxedo jacket hanging in my closet, if I ever get the jacket conversion bug again.

Good luck.