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21st March 10, 08:03 AM
#1
D.C. Dalgliesh: Their K/1 range has an excellent traditional selvedge and a small but interesting assortment of tartans that often can't be found elsewhere, such as O'Brien or Clodagh. Their Ancient and Modern colours are very appealing, although I wish they would make stock Reproduction (Weathered) K/1! Dalgliesh's main specialty remains dance tartans. They have a large range available in lightweight K/7, many setts which are in-house creations.
Lochcarron: They has a very extensive range for heavyweight (Strome) cloth, which means that, more often than not, this is what many kilts will be made from, whether they are a low-yardage style or a full "tank". Whenever I order Strome cloth, I have no idea what the selvedge will be. Occasionally I get a traditional kilting selvedge, but most of the time it will be a tuck-in. Sometimes this tuck-in selvedge is really great, other times it is on par, or worse, than Marton Mills. I hardly ever work with Braeriach (Mediumweight), but it is much the same. The colours of any of their ranges are quite nice, especially the Weathered, but the Ancient is not as nice as Strathmore, but better than the House of Edgar.
House of Edgar: They have a large Medium weight range most of which is available in single-width with a traditional selvedge, except for the Hebridean and shadow tartans which are double-width with a tuck-in selvedge. Their Old & Rare range contains many tartans or unusual historic variants of tartans which just aren't found anywhere else. Their small Heavyweight range is divided into two categories: Heavyweight which sold single-width with a traditional selvedge, and Nevis which is their budget range with a tuck-in selvedge and stain-resistant coating. I don't think their Ancient range is very nice-looking; the Ancient Red tends to look pink and the Ancient Green looks a bit too 'mint-green', but their Modern or Muted palettes are very attractive.
Strathmore: Strathmore only carries light (T7) and medium weight (W60). The mediumweight has a fairly good selvedge which can sometimes be tuck-in or occasionally traditional. Very nice colours, especially the Wilson's of Bannockburn reproductions. I think their Ancient Colour palette (or 'Old Colours' as they term it) is better than anyone else's.
Marton Mills: Their fabric always has a tuck-in selvedge which seems to get better in quality each year. It is also treated for stain-resistance. Their heavyweight Jura range, in particular, is a very good value for money and is quite similar to HoE's Nevis. Their Modern colours are nice, but the Ancient can be a bit too light depending upon the tartan. They produce the best-looking shade of Saffron, though the colours of some their other Irish County Crest tartans can be a bit garish.
Fraser & Kirkbright: A light feeling fabric with a very soft hand. The selvedge is not only fuzzy, but also very wavy. These fuzzy bits can easily be cleaned up by using a clothes shaver, but the wavy edge can't be so easily fixed and pressing can sometimes make it look worse. This can look bad on the apron portions of a kilt. I never use F&K simply because they don't carry medium or heavyweight in stock.
So, while they are all good fabrics, whenever I am making a 13 oz. kilt I will try to use the House of Edgar or Strathmore. When I am making a 16 oz. kilt I will first try Dalgliesh, then House of Edgar, then Marton Mills, then lastly Lochcarron. (I realise this somewhat contradicts the OP's quote concerning my website, but I have become increasingly disappointed with Lochcarron of late.)
[B][COLOR="DarkGreen"]John Hart[/COLOR]
Owner/Kiltmaker - Keltoi
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