My first impulse would be to do a warm water wash using a mild detergent - ordinary shampoo probably, so as to physically remove the dirt and fungus from the surface of the cloth. Wool is very resilient, if treated properly - no twisting, scrubbing or rubbing, no sudden changes in temperature and all should be well.

Dry cleaning might not be the right treatment for that type and level of soiling, though it might improve things once the fabric is fairly clean.

I once spent almost a week cleaning up a greatcoat someone had inherited only for them to be really upset because almost all the dirt had come out. I washed it - I think - twice in one day and then again on the second day, as the water softened the soiling and I worked it loose very gently.

If the sewing was done with cotton thread it might very well be rotten and the pleats could fall apart - I don't know any way to prevent that, but it might give you an excuse to have it remade in a way that minimises the visible damage.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: