Not to speak for Josh, but I can answer the buckle query that you mention. Matt Newsome does his box pleated kilts the same way and it is the buckle configuration discussed in Matt and Barb's addendum on Box Pleated kilts that they co-authored to accompany Barb and Elsie's book "The Art of Kiltmaking". While it would certainly be possible to do the traditional buckle configuration on any kilt, making the slot for the strap on a box or Kingussie pleated kilt is a bit tricky...based on the orientation of the pleats, etc. This inside buckle configuration is a bit easier to do and is commonly used on many casual kilts.
Incidentally, while the standard kilt buckle configuration in 2 or 3 buckles is considered traditional, if you've looked at pics of many older kilts (pre-1900), the method of fastening them varies greatly. Some have ties, some were held on only by a belt and pins, some had buttons...yes buttons. I tend to take the view that anything that works is acceptable.













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