Bespeaking of Bespoke - what is your experience?

[Scotland Forever]

Time for a new Traditional Thread. I was wondering about bespoke experiences had by Forum members.

Unless I am mistaken, tailored clothing comes in three types:
Off the rack, i.e., made to a "standard" pattern and size,
Made to Measure, i.e., made to a standard pattern, but sized to fit the person ordering, and
Bespoke, made to a pattern designed specifically for the wearer, to his specifications and measurements

Some time ago, I recall reading posts which described a visit to a tailor, but the result was a garment made to the tailor's usual style, not necessarily that chosen by the wearer. My thought is to hear (or read) more about Members' stories of custom (highland) garments, either from traditional tailors, highland and otherwise, or from helpful and talented relatives and others, including garments you have made yourselves.

I am interested in three things in particular:

1) your reasons for choosing the level of custom work you did

I chose to purchase a Regulation Doublet from MacKenzie Frain. My reason for chosing 'Made to Measure' was a mix of wanting a custom garment and not wanting to pay full 'Bespoke' price. It also came down to the fact that the 'MtM' RD @ MF was cheaper than 'off the peg' sizes at the others I'd considered. I ended up buying the whole outfit from MF as well to save on time, money and shipping.

2) your method of selecting the tailor/maker, and

The method I used was a long one. I started with thinking of buying everything from my previous kiltmaker (Geoffrey Tailor). I then decided to look at other quality kiltmakers as mentioned on this board as well as other Internet research. As previously mentioned, I then came across the fact that most kiltmakers 'off the peg' version of the Regulation Doublet was quite pricey vs their prices for the PC.

Since I was buying this outfit for my wedding, and wanted something special, I chose MacKenzie Frain as the maker for my RD. Reading a review of one purchased by XMS'er MacMillan of Rathdown sealed the deal. Now, I was on the hunt for a kiltmaker for my Black Stewart. I narrowed it down to:

- Geoffrey Tailor - My first kilt as an adult was made by GT, so I felt comfortable with their work.
- MacKenzie Frain - Considered the package deal, and the saving on time, money & shipping.
- Barbara from XMS - No reply to my query asking to have my Kilt made by her (my *only* choice outside Scotland).
- Kinloch Anderson - A bit pricey, so decided not to go with them.
- Manley Richardson (via Scotweb) - Liked the custom touches that are offered, but again a wee bit pricey.
- Hector Russell - I can't remember why I didn't go with them now. That was back in Jan-Feb timeframe.
- Slanj Kilts - Almost went with the 'kiltmaker to the stars'. I'll probably get another made by them.

3) any comparison you might make between the finished garment and similar garments made in other ways ( i.e., your MTM doublet vs Off the Rack, or your bespoke kilt vs a MTM one, or your home built jacket compared to your grandfather's bespoke, etc. even a comparison between two bespoke tailors)

Let's talk about quality of fabric, durability, practicality, as well as distinction and style. And by all means, if fit is an issue, let's talk about that, too.

I have in mind coats, jackets, doublets, tunics, waistcoats, and kilts, but I expect we could learn about any sewn garments in this discussion.

Thanking you in advance, I am
yr hmbl &c...
M'LL

I'd like to mention that it turns out that 'MacKenzie Frain' outsources their kiltmaking to 'House of Tartan' or they are in fact the same company - I was never able to figure this out one way or the other myself. My original GT kilt was made with the measurements by Hugh @ one of the Southern Scottish Games that GT frequents - fit like a glove in length and waist size. This included the widening of my mid section over the years until I am at the first hole on the belts. It's held up really well over the last 11 years. The pleats have held their edge, I think I've had it dry cleaned twice in that time and there doesn't appear to be any fading or other issues. The Prince Charlie Jacket/Waistcoat has also held up over the years. It was 'off the peg' and I ended up switching it out for the next size up when I went to Scotland a short time later.

The MF/HoT kilt is very nice, but I would not order from them again. I sent MF a ton of measurements for the RD jacket/waistcoat and it fits perfectly. The kilt however not so much; the length is spot on, but the waist measurement is wayyyyyy off. I have the belts on the *last* hole, and it barely sits on me. This after I made sure to ask that the measurement I gave them to fit in the middle of the belts as to allow for weight gain/loss. As it is now, if I lose anything from my mid section, I won't be able to wear the damn thing. As a result of this mistake on their part, the front apron is also too far on the right side and my kilt pin is a good two inches over from where it should reside.

It's very hard to make an educated purchase with something like this, since usually when you buy a kilt and it turns out wrong, you're stuck with the damn thing.