It could be that the problem arose as women are usually softer in the middle than men - when I started to make garments for men I treated the fitting as for women but not so 8 shaped, and they all complained that the waist was wrong.
First of all they all measured their waists lower than where nature had put them, so the trousers were all too large.
They were part of costumes for plays set 'between the wars' so 1920's/30's high waisted style.
Then when I measured them and redid the waists they complained that they were pinched. I had to add an extra inch. Luckily I had not cut away the extra material.
This would affect the aprons rather than the pleats, as the difference appears more in front than behind. The waistband would compress the waist - for some women it might be necessary to use darts to achieve a good fit.
Anne the Pleater :ootd:
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