Being the history nut I am, what I wonder about is just where all these 20th century formal jacket styles came from.

When I got into this stuff, in the 1970s, Highland Dress catalogues offered:

Prince Charlie
Montrose
Regulation
Sherrifmuir
Kenmore

and it was common to see all of them being worn at formal functions around here.

But in my Highland Dress catalogues from the 1920s and 1930s only two styles are offered, the Coatee (what we call Prince Charlie) and the Doublet or "standard doublet" (what we call a Regulation Doublet).

The Coatee (Prince Charlie) is usually mentioned as being for younger men, and indeed it must have been a new style at that time, as I can't find any earlier images of it.

The Doublet (regulation or standard) is discussed as follows in a William Anderson catalogue from the 1930s:

The Doublet is less popular than it once was, but is suitable especially for older men. To get over the objection of the rather heavy skirts we have designed a modified doublet known as the Kenmore Doublet. (It) may be made with a stand collar or with an open collar...

So here, perhaps, is the beginning of the 20th century fad for evening jackets with stand collars.

Stand collars are rare in civilian Highland dress from the mid 19th century up until the appearance of the Kenmore Doublet in the 1930s. They only appear in The Highlanders of Scotland on a couple men, on doublets which are basically civilianised military doublets which are fully buttoned up the front and have full Inverness skirts.

The most common type of jacket in The Highlanders of Scotland was this style, which was widely worn up through the 1930s and which evidently evolved into the Regulation Doublet:



It would be very cool to have this style made up. Nobody seems to make this style anymore. (Several people over the years have said that this style is offered, but as yet no one has posted a photo of one made by a current maker.)