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15th April 11, 07:19 PM
#1
Formal Jacket Types?
I have been investigating formal jackets of the doublet type and wondered if there are any more than the following. I have not included the Prince Charlie and Argyll as I think we all know what they look like.
Sherrifmuir
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Regulation
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Kenmore
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Balmoral
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Appin
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Montrose
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I cannot afford a new one yet but something may come up on ebay and I like doublets.
Not that I get to formal events much/if at all, but it would be a blast to walk into a family gathering at Christmas/New Year, dressed to the nines.
Last edited by chrisupyonder; 15th April 11 at 07:26 PM.
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15th April 11, 07:22 PM
#2
There are a few vendors that have slight variations of their own that are interesting.
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15th April 11, 08:13 PM
#3
I like this one.
Montrose Blue Velvet.
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15th April 11, 08:14 PM
#4
The OP lists the main Highland doublets but, as bchunter, pointed out there are bound to be variations on the details by various makers and vendors. An example of this would be the "GT doublet" made by Geoffrey (Tailor). It is like a Montrose but single breasted.
One other possibility would be a civilian mess jacket. Geoffrey also makes them but I can't find a linkable picture. Scroll down to the bottom here:
http://www.geoffreykilts.co.uk/kj.html
Here is the legendary Hamish in his GT doublet:
- Justitia et fortitudo invincibilia sunt
- An t'arm breac dearg
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16th April 11, 03:48 AM
#5
McKenzie Frain have a mess jacket on their website. They are a very service-oriented outfit. I am currently waiting for a pipers' doublet they are making to my design and specification........
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16th April 11, 06:40 AM
#6
Just thought. I personally would not consider a Montrose, wonderful style though it is, as being terribly versitile. After all, how many white tie events do you attend in a year?
" Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the adherence of idle minds and minor tyrants". Field Marshal Lord Slim.
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16th April 11, 07:31 AM
#7
I much prefer the Kenmore (and even more the Balmoral pictured above) to the Montrose doublet; but the king of them all, in my opinion, is the regulation doublet. It's versatile enough to be used for black tie events as well as white tie, it is much more elegant than a PC jacket, and it can hold its own in a crowd of the other formal doublets.
What more could you ask for?
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16th April 11, 07:44 AM
#8
Jock has nailed it on the head...as usual!
 Originally Posted by Jock Scot
Just thought. I personally would not consider a Montrose, wonderful style though it is, as being terribly versitile. After all, how many white tie events do you attend in a year?
What he said!
I'm like you...I've sat and drooled over various jackets and doublets...and searched about every site imaginable. In all my readings on threads about jackets, Jock or somebody else pointed this fact out: Most doublets are only suitable for white tie affairs...basically anything with a Jabot and ruffled cuffs required.
If you attended multiple formal affairs every year, then fine, invest in one of these. It appears, however, that you are more like me and may have the occasion to wear black tie to one or two events per year. In that case, the only remaining doublet choices are Regulation, Balmoral, or Appin (though I'll note here that you won't fine the Balmoral or Appin on ANY other site except the one which you pulled the pics from).
The Regulation doublet, as I understand it, can be worn with black and white tie, but always should be worn with a low notch (three button) waiscoat.
I see that Appin Doublet (which happens to belong to one of our esteemed forum members) as primarily black tie. I think it would be good for occasions (such as holiday gatherings) that you referenced. I don't think it's quite suitable for white tie, but I might be wrong.
The Balmoral is shown depicted with a black tie, but as I understand it, the Balmoral "uniform" is worn with black tie, even at white tie events. Somebody more versed with state affairs would have to explain that further, but the implications, then, might be that its only suitable for white tie events.
Again, the black Argyll emerges as the most useful jacket on the market...can be worn for sharp day wear, with a four-in-hand tie, or as evening wear, when paired with a black bowtie. In either of these roles, it can be worn WITH or WITHOUT a waistcoat/vest...and in the black tie role, you could choose between a five button or three button, depending on the look you want to go for.
As Robbie pointed out, I'd also recommend that you check out Mackenzie Frain. They, too, have some jacket variations that you won't find on any other sites...and they are relatively affordable. Skye Highland Outfitters is another option.
Now that I've covered all the standard jackets (or ones that you can click and purchase off a website, anyhow)...here's what I've decided on as my personal goal: an Argyle or Regulation doublet with some upgrades.
What I eventually end up going with will be determined by cost and opportunity, but the things I'm considering are:
- Navy blue or Midnite Blue Velvet (or possibly navy bareatha)
- Purple grosgrain silk cuffs, facings, and/or collar
With the bareatha option, I think it might be quite cost effective to find a quality used Argyll (I'm even willing to go black) and then have a skilled tailor change out the collar and cuffs with silk...add some special buttons and you have a jacket that will make you one of a kind in a room full of rental and cheaply made PCs. You could do the same with a PC I believe...there's a pic of a Balmoral affair with Philip wearing what appears to be a PC-like jacket with a red silk collar and red silk bucket cuffs (or similar..I just know they aren't flap style cuffs).
Hope my musings help you with some ideas of your own.
"If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." -- Thomas Paine
Scottish-American Military Society Post 1921
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16th April 11, 07:49 AM
#9
 Originally Posted by Jock Scot
Just thought. I personally would not consider a Montrose, wonderful style though it is, as being terribly versitile. After all, how many white tie events do you attend in a year?
I know, I know, I know. But I WANT one. Plan"B" is to marry a (desperate) rich socialite, then I'd NEED one and could justify it. Couldn't I?
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16th April 11, 08:04 AM
#10
" Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the adherence of idle minds and minor tyrants". Field Marshal Lord Slim.
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