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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Victoria, BC, Canada 1123.6536.5321
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    I hope this helps to answer some of the questions you all have.

    First, I made a mistake when I posted the pleat reveal. It is actually 1/2" at the bottom of the Fell. This is a kilt for a very thin person. The waist is only 30"-32". So that may be throwing some of you off.
    It is also very heavy fabric so there may be a visual illusion happening also.

    The area of the pleat cut-outs was pretty well frayed when I got the kilt. Please remember that this is a military loaner kilt and has been used and abused by generations of young soldiers.

    Now, on the the questions.

    How much fabric needs to be left to re-sew the pleats I have no real idea. I would estimate 6-10 threads of good cloth should be sufficient. Please remember that when worn there should be almost no stress on the pleat stitching.
    This is what I have been trying to stress to everyone and why I started this thread in the first place. A Traditional Kilt has re-enforcements behind the Fell that take up the stress.
    Today we are so used to seeing kilts where there is nothing inside the kilt. Where the pleats are just sewn down. All the stress of moving is transferred to the pleat stitching and if that fails the kilt fails. If there is a liner it is more for show than to cover and hide the interfacings.

    This Kilt was made by a competent Kiltmaker. Were they a Master? Well, I have no way of knowing. But it is evident from the construction that they did not have Barb's book when they learned their trade. The methods used are completely different. There are many ways to make a kilt. Some good and some not so good. And some are just different.
    The one thing that I have learned about kiltmaking is that it is not the outside of the kilt that is important to the construction it is the inside. The stuff you do inside will allow the outside to look good and hang well but if you skip or omit the interfacings and stabilizers the kilt will fail. Or at least it will not look as good as one with the internal construction.

    The next step I did was baste the entire kilt. I re-shaped the apron edges and put in 5 rows of pleat basting. I did the pleat basting more to make the thing manageable to move around the shop. The basting will also be more to hold everything in its relative position than to set everything perfectly for pressing.

    The next step is to re-stitch the Fell back together. As anyone who has made their own kilt will know this is hours of hand stitching. Over and over till all the pleats are stitched.
    Last edited by The Wizard of BC; 6th July 08 at 11:52 AM.
    Steve Ashton
    www.freedomkilts.com
    Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
    I wear the kilt because:
    Swish + Swagger = Swoon.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    22nd November 07
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    Thanks Wizard of BC! This has been a very interesting and helpful thread.
    Last edited by Bugbear; 19th September 08 at 08:09 PM.
    I tried to ask my inner curmudgeon before posting, but he sprayed me with the garden hose…
    Yes, I have squirrels in my brain…

  3. #3
    Join Date
    13th March 05
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    Victoria, British Columbia, Canada (OCONCAN)
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    Wow, Steve - I recognize that kilt! I wore it 36 years ago! It was in better shape then.
    "Touch not the cat bot a glove."

  4. #4
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    I've been following this but wanted to find out a bit more before I commented.
    From what I can see you're doing a fantastic job so far. And I'm surprised to see a Loaner Kilt that has lasted so long. It's been well worn and it looks like you are going to help it get a few more years.

    Well done, Steve.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    25th September 04
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    I had a chance to spend some time working on the Military Kilts so I thought I would post an update.

    When I took to old worn waistband off I found that this kilt did indeed originally have a reverse pleat. So I thought what the heck, I've gone this far I might as well put it back in.

    The first thing I have to do is re-establish the under-apron right side taper.
    Here you can see my method of doing that. Note that I am using a trick from my yacht design days. The curved line is laid out with a flexible batten and some lead weights called 'ducks'.



    Here is a shot from a different angle showing the amount of apron taper and the curve.




    Once the aprons are basted and pressed I was able to finish the basting.
    Now that everything is back in its proper alignment it is starting to look like a kilt again.



    Here is what the inside looks like at this stage.
    Even though the Fell stitches are missing it doesn't look too bad.



    The next step will be to re-stitch all the pleats in the Fell. Most of the stitches are loose and done with a very large yarn like stuff. So wish me luck as I begin the long process of stitching.
    Steve Ashton
    www.freedomkilts.com
    Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
    I wear the kilt because:
    Swish + Swagger = Swoon.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC View Post


    The next step will be to re-stitch all the pleats in the Fell. Most of the stitches are loose and done with a very large yarn like stuff. So wish me luck as I begin the long process of stitching.
    Seeing the first pic I could not contemplate reconstruction.

    Now seeing this pic I can see it was the cutting of the extra material along the back that I was looking at in the first set of pictures. Very nice job Steve.

    Not even the same kilt but much nicer.
    Will your Client be surprised, You bet Ch'a.
    MrBill
    Very Sir Lord MrBill the Essential of Happy Bottomshire
    Listen to kpcw.org

    Every other Saturday 1-4 PM

  7. #7
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    Oh wow - Kilt Resurection Unlimited.

    That is looking good - though all that mare's nest of threads would worry me.

    Human hair conditioner is quite useful for smoothing wool - more particularly knitted things, but also woven, if it has had the scales lifted by hot water. It can sometimes assist in loosening the fibres enough to allow the garment to be stretched out to what it was, or at least closer to it.

    Another good thing is vinegar, as wool 'prefers' to be slightly acidic rather than in the alkaline state which detergent leaves it. 'Old wives' used to add a drop of white vinegar to the final rinse for wool. For a kilt it might require half a cup, or even more for a tank.
    I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
    -- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.

  8. #8
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    Wow... gotta say that it looks completely different. Good luck on the rest of it. Can't wait to see the finished results.

  9. #9
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    Its A L I V E !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    1st March 04
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    Steve, I really take my hat off to you, as I would to any kiltmaker or anyone attempting to make their own kilt (not the same thing!), for having taken this one on in the first place. That you have made such fine progress is to be applauded and, I believe, indicates that a competent engineer is undertaking this restoration. Very well done!

    I still cannot get my head around the washing, in water, of a traditional, woollen kilt - Woolite or no Woolite! Maybe it is because neither of the washing machines I have ever owned has had a cold, or even cool, wash setting. Obviously it can be done, but I would never risk it.

    Cannot wait to see your finished handiwork.

    Take care,
    Ham.
    [B][I][U]No. of Kilts[/U][/I][/B][I]:[/I] 102.[I] [B]"[U][B]Title[/B]"[/U][/B][/I]: Lord Hamish Bicknell, Laird of Lochaber / [B][U][I]Life Member:[/I][/U][/B] The Scottish Tartans Authority / [B][U][I]Life Member:[/I][/U][/B] The Royal Scottish Country Dance Society / [U][I][B]Member:[/B][/I][/U] The Ardbeg Committee / [I][B][U]My NEW Photo Album[/U]: [/B][/I][COLOR=purple]Sadly, and with great regret, it seems my extensive and comprehensive album may now have been lost forever![/COLOR]/

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