A couple Box-pleated questions...

[chasem]

So I thought I'd jump on the box-pleat bandwagon, and I had some tartan, so I started sewing one up. I got started on the last pleat and realized that there are a couple things I'm not sure about with box-pleated kilts, and was unable to find here. If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.

a) Is there any form of steeking with a box pleat kilt, or is it unnecessary doe to not having cut out the excess pleat fabric?

b) How is that underapron strap attached on the inside? I assume through all layers of fabric with stitching not visible on the outer layer.

c) Is there any canvasing used, generally, or is that taken care of by not cutting the pleats as well? and lastly,

d) are the inside of the pleats stitched in any way, or simply pressed and held in place by lining?

Thanks!

[way2fractious]

a) Is there any form of steeking with a box pleat kilt, or is it unnecessary due to not having cut out the excess pleat fabric?

You are quite right - steeking is not necessary in a box-pleat kilt. The box pleats have nowhere near the weight of the traditional knife pleats.

b) How is that underapron strap attached on the inside? I assume through all layers of fabric with stitching not visible on the outer layer.

Use the same technique as attaching the apron strap. Make the stitches to the outside on a slight diagonal and return the needle to the inside by reentering the exit hole and using a slight diagonal path also.

c) Is there any canvasing used, generally, or is that taken care of by not cutting the pleats as well?

With worsted wool fabric, go ahead and stitch in a stabilizer and the canvas. Wool is too stretchy and the pleat stitching too delicate to handle the stresses. Make it a "real" kilt!

d) are the inside of the pleats stitched in any way, or simply pressed and held in place by lining?

With canvas stitched in, this is no concern.

Without canvas (using non-wool fabric), the tops of the pleats overlap each other slightly before they are captured by the waistband. They will stay in place, but for the meticulous, a simple whipstitch or small running basting stitch along each overlap will secure them.

I'm glad to hear of your box-pleat project. Be sure to show it off when you are done.

[chasem]

Thanks for the help, w2f. It is wool, so I will make sure to do the stabilizer and canvas.

And you couldn't have been more descriptive with the other questions. Thanks a bunch.

I will most definitely be posting pictures of the progress. I was hoping to have it done by this saturday, but my workload was increased for the remainder of the week, so I'm shooting for next wednesday or thursday. I'll post pictures asap.

[O'Neille]

I've read all of this with great interest. Please give us some more details on the kilt you're making. Is it all hand sewn, what weight is the tartan, Any hints for the rest of us based on your experience. I look towards seeing the fruits of your labor. O'Neille

[chasem]

I've read all of this with great interest. Please give us some more details on the kilt you're making. Is it all hand sewn, what weight is the tartan, Any hints for the rest of us based on your experience. I look towards seeing the fruits of your labor. O'Neille

Alright. The kilt will be all hand sewn, in MacFarland modern, 13oz material. I'm working with 3 1/2 yards, as I had trimmed it down to that for a 7 yard knife pleat, but decided to go with a box pleat instead. I may drop that extra half a yard or so back in to the other piece for another box pleat kilt, I just didn't feel like doing all that join-stitching on this one. But this one's going to turn out fine, 7 pleats rather than 9 pleats.

I've used Barb's book as a basic guideline, and kept in mind some of what Matt has said to go to box pleats rather than knife. I found it very helpful - not having ever worked with box pleats - to take the waistband strip and pleat that out as though it were the kilt material. That was less to work with, and made it much easier to visualize how I would need to do the pleats.

Essentially I've done the pleating the same as I would a knife-pleated kilt, the exception being that I did not fold the next pleat before stitching the current one. Didn't want to overlap that material underneath and mess up the box pleat aspect.

In doing the box pleats, however, I found it much easier to pin the entire pleat in place before sewing, due to the amount of taper from waist to hips being much more comparative to a 7-8 yard knife pleat kilt. (There's much more taper per pleat with 7 pleats than there is with 25+ )

That's where it stands at the moment though, 6 pleats sewn, one more to go. And so far I've pretty much just followed Barb's book.

I'll write about the rest when I finish it

[chasem]

Okay, so I've run into another question.

What is the easiest method of basting the pleats for pressing? That's where I'm at, and I feel like what I'm doing is too cumbersome, there must be an easier way.

I've basted the pleats above the fell with straight stitching to hold the box pleats in place, and I'm now looking at basting everything below the fell.

So I'm pinning the visible portion of the pleats at the right length, then trying to get them centered. Once I've got them centered, I baste. I don't think I'm describing it well enough, because it doesn't sound as difficult as it seems to be.

Is it really as tedious as I'm making it?

[Heath]

okay, so i'm kinda new here. what book is this you're talking about, and how can i get one?

[efer]

Heath,

the book that they are refering to is Barb T's book about "the Art of Kiltmaking"
check out the link
http://www.celticdragonpress.com/

Cheers,

[Heath]

Heath,

the book that they are refering to is Barb T's book about "the Art of Kiltmaking"
check out the link
http://www.celticdragonpress.com/

Cheers,

excellent!!! thank you very much!!!!!

[chasem]

well, it's finished. I'll get some pics posted as soon as I get the sport coat back that is being modified.