Had an itch...outfit from scratch.

**kevinkinney** · 20th March 08, 10:06 PM

Hello all,

I've worked with wool for years, so it's natural to bend my mind and materials towards my XMTS hobbies. Last season, in an effort to craft a more outdoorsy wool jacket for use with a kilt, I turned our Wool Blanket Shirt pattern into a short jacket, plastered 10 antler buttons down the front, and strutted proudly for a whole weekend.

I didn't meet my goal of making a coat with equal measures of practicality and class. I didn't get attached- which was good, because by Monday the cuffs were rolled up 4", and it had migrated to the other side of the closet. So, I put the idea in the back of my mind, and worked like mad all winter.

Spring is finally here, our new patterns are graded (yes folks, they ship tomorrow!), and I'm free to craft again.

My goal was to make a heavy wool coat with a gentleman's appearance. Beth and I enjoy a good round of wing shooting now and then, so I decided on a shooting coat. (warning- there will be firearms pictured- per the approval of the Mod's)

As a pseudo tailor, I've made a few suit coats in my time. I pulled out the pattern I made for my wedding suit, and promptly chopped it to the appropriate shape and length for use with the kilt.

A romp through the prototype fabric rolls yielded a heavy Loden wool coating material and some 3 ounce leather. The match was instant.

A DIY tailoring post would eat plenty of bandwidth, so I'll skip ahead a bit. I hold some dislike for structured menswear. Raising a glass may be difficult enough within the constraints of a 42R off the rack, let alone swinging a longarm in pursuit of a speedy clay. I opted for a more relaxed fit and shape, coupled with serious articulation in the arms, and a bi-swing gusset on the rear. Here's the arms, with room to spare.

My mind's eye saw a leather shooting pad, bellows shell pockets with tabs to hold the flaps open, and a welt pocket on the free shoulder to hold glasses. I also envisioned snaps, anchored in leather tabs, in place of more vulnerable buttons and button holes. Brass hardware was a must, in combination with the green and chocolate brown.

I left the rear panel and arms unlined, using a single layer of coating wool for the facings, and a slight trim of lighter wool flannel for the yoke in the rear. Since shells, shotgun choke tubes, and field tools might have some heft, I opted for a rear belt to reduce any feedback while competing. I tried a belt from wool, but opted for one in leather, studded with brass snaps for a quick-and-solid adjustment that I can accomplish with one free hand.

All went well, but I was at a loss for accessories....so I made them too. Here's the lot.

Per the dialog of the credit card commercial:

Boots: $200
Hose and garters: $60 (thanks Matt)
Materials and Leather: $250
Shotgun: (yeah, right. I drive a rusty 94' Toyota pickup.) Loaner

Wordless stares from club members at $500/person charity shoot: Priceless

I made a Bison leather hybrid Sporran from Charles Thompson's instructions, augmenting them with a few snaps, a buckle for adjustment, and a cord lock on the main cinch.

The shell bag came from a tasty piece of 4 ounce saddle leather I'd been saving. It will weather nicely, as the brass hardware earns a good patina.

The kilt pin and handle for the cutlery came from different ends of the same antler, with some Walnut accents from a tree in my fathers yard.

Here's a shot of the accessories. I structured the shell bag for quick access when the flap is folded back, and built in a removable divider to keep the hull separate from the live rounds. After a few trial sporrans, I decided that bigger was better, and sized mine to hold the kitchen sink.

My only regret in the whole process is my kilt. I made it from internet instructions, lost weight, and re-sized it long before I read Barb's book. Despite the relatively poor appearance, I can't seem to put it away. I'll have to drag out the weathered Douglas tartan soon and set things right....it matches the green of the jacket to a 'T'.

Cheers,

Kevin.

Note- This one was a second attempt. I removed the bi-swing yoke from the rear. I used a slightly lighter wool in Navy Blue, and Black Elk hide for the accents. I just shipped it to a certain specialty kilt maker in Franklin.

**berserkbishop** · 20th March 08, 10:25 PM

GEEZ. I am practically drooling. That is one great looking jacket. I am not a 42 or I might start pinching some pennies to pick up that blue one. You do very impressive work. I wish I had half your talent with a needle.

BB