Tailor (new member) asking for help

[Cutter]

Hello all,

A client of mine is a professional musician here in the south of Spain. He plays bagpipes, and he bought a kilt from a company in Scotland, by means of the internet.

The thing is a full 15 cm too wide. I've tried to solve the problem by moving the buckles, but I couldn't get more than 9 cm out of it, so it still falls down. We've both tried getting the company to own up and fix the problem, but they're not making much effort. "Ooh, well, we never have problems like these, sir...". Not very helpful. Now he's got a show on this friday and needs to wear it, and I'd like to fix it.

I'm a tailor, not a kiltmaker, so could anyone advise me on how to go about it without messing the whole thing up? I'm good at what I do, just have no knowledge of kilts..... Any help would be much appreciated.

Also, I've found out that there is a seam in the center back, hidden under a pleat. Now, I've always thought that the whole idea of a kilt is that it's made from one single length of cloth. Is it at all acceptable to be sent a kilt out of two pieces??

Thanks in advance

[sydnie7]

One small answer, yes it is perfectly acceptable that it is made from two pieces. Much tartan these days is woven "double width" and split to be seamed into one long piece for the kilt.

One larger answer to taking the kilt in is to increase the depth of one or more pleats, usually the first and/or last pleats next to the unpleated apron. This involves reworking the waistband, obviously. There are others here on the board who can give you much better instructions than I.

Best of luck!

[Canuck]

Hello all,

A client of mine is a professional musician here in the south of Spain. He plays bagpipes, and he bought a kilt from a company in Scotland, by means of the internet.

The thing is a full 15 cm too wide. I've tried to solve the problem by moving the buckles, but I couldn't get more than 9 cm out of it, so it still falls down. We've both tried getting the company to own up and fix the problem, but they're not making much effort. "Ooh, well, we never have problems like these, sir...". Not very helpful. Now he's got a show on this friday and needs to wear it, and I'd like to fix it.

I'm a tailor, not a kiltmaker, so could anyone advise me on how to go about it without messing the whole thing up? I'm good at what I do, just have no knowledge of kilts..... Any help would be much appreciated.

Also, I've found out that there is a seam in the center back, hidden under a pleat. Now, I've always thought that the whole idea of a kilt is that it's made from one single length of cloth. Is it at all acceptable to be sent a kilt out of two pieces??

Thanks in advance

Temporary fix. the left side buckle could be attached to the inside of the kilt. So the strap would not go through a button hole. Then move the right side buckles so that the kilt fits. This should get you through the weekend, however the apron will appear too large, but only some may notice, but the general public will not.

[Cutter]

Heh, thanks Sydnie

Right, so the two-piece issue isn't a big deal then.

As for deepening the pleat, that would be the best idea then? Reworking the waistband is no problem, i've got the skills and the machines and whatnot. It's just, this client is very demanding, and he wants a good kilt, meaning the pleats have to hang the way they should.(He used to wear a kilt in school and in the army, and so he knows a bit about it.) When I moved the buckles, it threw off the pleats.

He suggested I narrow the aprons, but that would be almost 8 cm on each side, which is of course not how it should be. If I deepen the pleats next to the aprons, will that affect the fall of the pleats at all? (It's like rocket-science to me, you know. Seems different laws of physics are at work. For instance, had no idea how a garment so heavy can stay on a heavy belly. Turns out, kilt-wearers don't breathe much?)

Anyone else here who could help?

[ChattanCat]

Hi Cutter,

15 cm is a lot to take out of a kilt. What you really want to do is take the same amount out of the over apron, under apron, and the pleats. As stated above, you can increase the reverse pleat and the inverted pleats. These are next to each apron. Next, eliminate a pleat on each side. The idea is to keep everything symetrical.

[ardchoille]

from Seattle, WA.

[sydnie7]

(It's like rocket-science to me, you know. Seems different laws of physics are at work. For instance, had no idea how a garment so heavy can stay on a heavy belly. Turns out, kilt-wearers don't breathe much?)

Here's a kilt concept that helped me understand their construction (talking about the traditional knife-pleated woolen kilt you're dealing with here, not modern demins and the like). The buckles are attached to the inner canvas/stiffener, so the wearer is "wearing" the lining and inner construction. The woolen outer garment is attached to the lining etc., but is more free to float and swing as the wearer moves.

Here on the forum, "tank" is commonly used to describe these traditional kilts. It was originally coined to indicate their durability, as in "made like a tank." However, I also think of the wearers as riding around inside the garment, like the soldier inside a tank. Not sure this image will help your project but it did help me visualize the construction.

Vis-a-vis reworking pleats and aprons, take note of the A-shape of aprons and the tapering width of pleats that should exist in the original garment. This change in circumference from hip to waist is a main factor in keeping the kilt in position on the wearer, and must be maintained (or improved) as you alter the garment to this wearer.

Hope this makes sense! As Canuck noted, you might be able to get him through the event with some buckle trickery, if the full re-work couldn't be done in time. Best of luck.

[Cutter]

Here's a kilt concept that helped me understand their construction (talking about the traditional knife-pleated woolen kilt you're dealing with here, not modern demins and the like). The buckles are attached to the inner canvas/stiffener, so the wearer is "wearing" the lining and inner construction. The woolen outer garment is attached to the lining etc., but is more free to float and swing as the wearer moves.

Here on the forum, "tank" is commonly used to describe these traditional kilts. It was originally coined to indicate their durability, as in "made like a tank." However, I also think of the wearers as riding around inside the garment, like the soldier inside a tank. Not sure this image will help your project but it did help me visualize the construction.

Vis-a-vis reworking pleats and aprons, take note of the A-shape of aprons and the tapering width of pleats that should exist in the original garment. This change in circumference from hip to waist is a main factor in keeping the kilt in position on the wearer, and must be maintained (or improved) as you alter the garment to this wearer.

Hope this makes sense! As Canuck noted, you might be able to get him through the event with some buckle trickery, if the full re-work couldn't be done in time. Best of luck.

Thanks. Actually, this kilt has fused canvass. I'm all for economy, but it somehow seems strange to fuse, especially given your explanation. The wearer isn't wearing the inner construction (that would make sense, if he would).

Hi Cutter,

15 cm is a lot to take out of a kilt. What you really want to do is take the same amount out of the over apron, under apron, and the pleats. As stated above, you can increase the reverse pleat and the inverted pleats. These are next to each apron. Next, eliminate a pleat on each side. The idea is to keep everything symetrical.

Good tips, thank you! However, clarify for me please: if I deepen the pleats next to the aprons 15cm/4, meaning 3.5 off of each apron and 3.5 deepening of these two pleats, why would I have to eliminate pleats?

@Canuck: Got the point, thanks. I'll go for the full repair I suppose, there still is time, and this gentleman has had plenty of headaches. Wouldn't want to have him come back another round. (unless for a nice shirt or something )


Thanks for the input everyone!

[The Wizard of BC]

Just for clarification would you answer some questions so that we may assist you better.

1. Is the Kilt sewn with a sewing machine or is it done with hand stitching?

2. Does the Kilt have the pleats cut away in the area of the back where the pleats are sewn down? (you may have to lift the inner liner to determine this.

3. Can you tell the composition of the fabric? Is it Wool, a Polyester/Rayon blend or possibly an Acrylic?

4. Would you please measure the kilt and let us know the dimensions of the following;
a. Measure along the hem and let us know how much fabric is in the Kilt.
b. What is the width of the apron at the waistband?
c. What is the width of the apron at the hem?
d. How many pleats are there?
e. Please measure from the outward crease of one pleat to the outward crease of the next. How much fabric is there in one complete pleat.
f. Please measure the width of the exposed part of the pleats a the bottom of where they are sewn down and tapered. (A good average dimension is fine.)
g. Please measure the size of one repeat of the Tartan Pattern.

With these measurements we can asses what type of Kilt you have and then better help you with a modification.

[Cutter]

Hello Wiz, thanks for the questions.


1. Is the Kilt sewn with a sewing machine or is it done with hand stitching?
-Fully machined, fused canvass.

2. Does the Kilt have the pleats cut away in the area of the back where the pleats are sewn down? (you may have to lift the inner liner to determine this.
-No, not cut away.

3. Can you tell the composition of the fabric? Is it Wool, a Polyester/Rayon blend or possibly an Acrylic?
-100% Wool

a. Measure along the hem and let us know how much fabric is in the Kilt.
-7 meters. Which is odd, because my punter payed a lot more money, in choosing the 8 meter version.

b. What is the width of the apron at the waistband?
-65cm

c. What is the width of the apron at the hem?
-76

d. How many pleats are there?
-30

e. Please measure from the outward crease of one pleat to the outward crease of the next. How much fabric is there in one complete pleat.
-Not sure how you mean, they are sewn shut. Opened one, measured into it, gives me: pleat spacing is 2 cm, each pleat takes 8+6+2=16cm


f. Please measure the width of the exposed part of the pleats a the bottom of where they are sewn down and tapered. (A good average dimension is fine.)
-10+8+2.5=20.5


g. Please measure the size of one repeat of the Tartan Pattern.
-it's a solid colour cloth.

(Where's that icon for fingers crossed?)

By the way, my client is of course rather less than satisfied. Does anyone feel that the maker should fix this issue? The problem is that he can't afford to send it back to Scotland because he really needs it to perform.